Andrey Bukhtiyarov

I tried 20mm and 25mm, thos heights displace PSU holder a little to front and cables from PSU became to close to front glass window. So, I selected height only 15mm.

Hello Anthony Padula, thank you for your reply. Here is the answers: 1. This is cutted metal pci slot caps from old pc case. I used them becouse it was the easest way to fix AiO in this place. (See more detailed images). Without this - AiO's position is unstable. With use of this metal thing - AiO is strongly fixed. 2. Not sure - I undestand question. I try to answer. I fixed raditor by pci slot caps from one side and by two screws from other. And also radiator is fixed by two screws from fans on the glass side. For me it was enough - radiator is completly moveless. 3. No, not necessary. I not used a metal mesh around my case frame. 4. All tools I used in this modification is on the image on one of the previous posts. I cut plastic and metal with first (white); remove metal with second (red); and finaly make edges more accurate with third (blue). 5. No, just cut with first, and then finish with third tools. It was not fast, took some time.

Hello Xing, thank you for your reply. 3mm difference is insignificant. There is some space between PSU and fans and is exactly 3mm. You can always move parts to find comfort position to compensate this 3mm.

Hi Kyle. As I wrote in my initial post - I completely destroyed case in my first attempt. Tryed to move motherboard 2cm down. But it is impossible without special tools. After this I bought new one case and desided make more calculation and not to do any havy modification. Make modification only if found simple solution. So I found this solution - it looks simple for me. The only difficult thing in it was calculate exact PSU position and cut a bit of metal from metal PSU holder. About fans height 25mm -> 15mm. Yes this is a good idea. Just take in mind Static Pressure, Air Flow, Speed and fans reaction speed. Static Pressure is most important becouse this fans not simple move air and also push it through radiator. The results of radiators resistance and sound may be different for different combinations. Normaly basic fans is well ajusted to his radiators in aspects of Static Pressure, side air output and side air compensation, and sound. Static Pressure normaly can be found in fans description, for Asus Strix AIO 240 fans is = 5.0 mmH2O. Air Flow and Speed participate in temperature output calculation and is important too. Fans speed reaction is how fast fans can grow speed to react on PWM command when CPU temperature grow. Here is the same - producer ajust well his fans to his radiators. For different fans situation may be different. If this speed is not enough - CPU will shut down PC on overtemperature. This is important for havy cpu loading applications and for overclocking, and not affect cpu when work only on low and middle loadings. In my experience I only once changed basic fans on other AiO and then returned back basic becouse of worse results inspite of the same characteristics in both fans descriptions. After this case I never change basic fans on AIO. About fans on top or bottom of radiator. For my modification was no choice. If move fans on top of radiator - radiator not fit over memory. The only solution for me was as I made. But if you use 15mm height fans may be you go to have option for select up or down position of fans on radiator. Of course for both positions the air direction must be to output air from the case.

Hi Kyle. Thank you for your question. Yes this was difficult question for me too - how to place PSU here. I used PSU size SFX. Is only size we can use for this modification. Not SFX-L. SFX size PSU in current PSU holder has space around = 6-7mm on each side. This space is enough for comfort air enter. I selected side to front panel becouse this way the air is cooler in comparison with side to GPU. The GPU area is like a hot room with a hot air circulation. The side to front panel is screened with two cold metal panels - internal holder panel and outer panel. When the air pass through 6mm space he touch big cold metal surfaces this help supply to PSU cooler air (air with less temperature in comparison to direct supply air from hot GPU room).

Hi Kyle, Yes back fan by default rub case parts. I used little rubber circles for displace fan and compensate vibration.

Hello. Ryzen 9 5900X just arrived. Here is little update of my build. Changes 1: Ryzen 9 3900X -> Ryzen 9 5900X; Changes 2: CPU overclock +13% (4.3GHz) -> CPU overclock +21% (4.5GHz); Changes 3: Back fan BeQuite 92x92x25 -> ID-COOLING 92x92x15 just for design reasons; I attach photos with new CPU and changed fan and a few photos of details for clearify my previous answers. I attach also few photos of my game benchmarks with this build. All benchmarks was made on ultras, with monitor 3440x1440, CPU overclock +21%, memory XMP - default, GPU overclock - default. Assassin's Creed Odyssey, Assassin's Creed Valhalla, Far Cry 5, Ghost Recon Breakpoint, Watch Dogs Legion. Important!!! To install Ryzen 5000 you need to update your X570 motherboard BIOS first. Or update later through special USB connector (if your MB has one) by plugin only PSU cable and inserting USB-flash with special BIOS file in special USB connector on motherboard. HARDWARE list after this changes CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 5900X, 12/24, 3.7-4.8Hz, AM4, 105W, DDR4 3200MHz, CPU Overclock +21% (4.5GHz constant) Watercooling: ASUS ROG Strix LC 240 RGB White Edition, 2500rpm, 37.4dBA, 81CFM Motherboard: ASUS ROG CROSSHAIR VIII IMPACT, X570, 2xDDR4, 2xM.2 Memory: G.Skill Trident Z Royal 32Gb 3600MHz, 16-19-19-39, 1.35V, F4-3600C16D-32GTRSC, 2x16 SSD: Samsung 970 PRO 1Tb MLC 2-bit 1200TBW 3500/2700, MZ-V7P1T0BW SSD: Samsung 860 PRO 2Tb MLC 2-bit 2400TBW 560/530, MZ-76P2T0BW OS: Windows 10 Pro GPU: MSI NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3080 10Gb, 1440/1710MHz, 750W PSU: Corsair SF750 SFX Platinum 750W Case: Cooler Master MasterBox NR200P, Mini-DTX, MCB-NR200P-WGNN-S00, White Fan: ID-COOLING NO-9215 PWM 92x92x15, 2500rpm, 33dBA, 44CFN, 0.16A, 9215M12S x3

Hello Kyle, thank you for your reply. 1) About size of radiator. Yes you can use H100i AIO. The size of radiator of both AIO is almost the same: LC240: 272 x 122 x 27 mm H100i: 277 x 120 x 27 mm I think any 240mm radiator can fit in this place. Only existing limitation is height. There is no more space to fit higher radiator or higher fan. And pay attention to fans and pump holders. One of fans need to be placed very close to upper pump holder. I cut one fan's holder to fit fans above memory and pump holder. I attach photo to show where to pay attention. 2) About H100i. I used it once in one of my previous builds. H100i was perfect. 3) About leaks. I use many years All-In-One water cooling from different brands like Asus, Gigabyte, Corsair, Coolermaster, Enermax - all work fine, and I never saw any leaks. For me there is no difference between brands. All brands has high quality and good temperature cooling. The only little difference for me is connection type and posibility of PWM on fans. I use overclocking and PWM of all fans to make system silent. Sometimes some AIO has his own management and you need use different software. In my build both Asus MB and Asus AIO work nice together. Is the first time I use it together and I happy how it work. For overclocking and PWM management I use "AI Suite 3" and for lights I use "Armory Crate" (both ASUS software).

Hello, David. Thank you for your reply. 1) Not sagging. Is fixed with metal srews. See image 8,9,10. One side of radiator is placed on cutted pci slots plugs. Other side is derectly fixed with black screws with washer. And one of the fans is screwed to top. This too ensure moveless state of radiator. See on the images - one of the fans is displaced 1cm. This was only way to fit it over motherboard in this place. 2) Yes I tryed standard position, but in this way the biggest problem was cables down PSU touch hot metal plate of videocard. The temperature of this metal plate is arround 60-65 degree and cables is the cables from mb main connection with hot self temperature. The only way to make them live together happy is leave beetween them little space. See image 5,6. The space we win is onle 5-6mm, but for two metal surfaces with good air output is enough to maintain good temperature.

Liamso, Thank you for reply. Here is the answers: 1) I not used any special tools just this tools on the image. 2) Yes most part of modification was to remove plastic from the top, cut one fan holder from each watercooler fan (wich is above the memory), drill one hole on the top for fan holder, and turn on the side metal holder of PSU cut him a little and fix it on front metal panel. 3) I used only cables from the PSU. In our market was present only one PSU size SFX with 750W. There was no choice :) And his cables fit very well this build. They is not long and all has thermal protection wrap. 4) About thermal performance: its crucial for me because I always use overclocking for work and gaming. And with this build for the first time I can say that I reached good results. All my previous build was significantly hotter. I used many other MINI-ITX cases like TT V1, Cougar QBX, some from Jonsbo - and all was 10-15 degree hotter. In this build temperature on high loading and overclocking is almost ideal. I think because of many factors: pc case: cold metal, good air circulation and good internal placement of parts. There is enough space for air ciculation and parts "can breath" freely. RTX 3080 MSI without hot back door. There was only available RTX 3080 videocard on our market and I happy to buy exactly this card. I was surprised about temperature and performace of this card - is NOT HOT in comparisone with my previous RTX 2080 TI cards. And its not has hot back door! For example I installed on my main working pc RTX 3090 with hot back door and in half hour system fall shutdown on overheating (memory and board). So, I must move 3090 to lower slot and install hotpipe like in the car :) see image. Its was only way for work on overclocking with 3090 in big case with 17 big fans. Motherboard ASUS ROG CROSSHAIR VIII IMPACT X570. In my experience is the coldest one. All the others was hotter. Additional air fans. I placed two 92mm slim fans on side panel for output hot air from GPU, PSU and board. And I placed 92mm normal size fan on back for input air. This was made to insure cold air for top waterblock fans (actualy I tried both in/out direction of this fan - and direction into case make approx 3 degree colder for processor). Finally I'm very happy with this coolermaster case - its small, silent and premium. I really love this superb production quality when see and touch this case.

INTRODUCTION My target was to create a small, quiet, powerful and beautiful computer for work and gaming. I decided to use the CoolerMaster NR200P case. The problem was that I wanted to use the glass window, place the RTX 3080 at the bottom, place the water cooling on top, make the case quiet and cold. It was impossible to do all this at the same time in the current version of the case. In the first attempt, I completely destroyed the case while modifying. Then I bought another new case and found this solution with a minimum of modifications. HARDWARE Processor: AMD Ryzen 9 3900X, 12/24, 3.8-4.6GHz, AM4, 105W, DDR4 3200MHz -> Overclock +13% Watercooling: ASUS ROG Strix LC 240 RGB White Edition, 2500rpm, 37.4dBA, 81CFM Motherboard: ASUS ROG CROSSHAIR VIII IMPACT, X570, 2xDDR4, 2xM.2 Memory: G.Skill Trident Z Royal 32Gb 3600MHz, 16-19-19-39, 1.35V, F4-3600C16D-32GTRSC, 2x16 SSD: Samsung 970 PRO 1Tb MLC 2-bit 1200TBW 3500/2700, MZ-V7P1T0BW SSD: Samsung 860 PRO 2Tb MLC 2-bit 2400TBW 560/530, MZ-76P2T0BW OS: Windows 10 Pro Videocard: MSI NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3080 10Gb, 1440/1710MHz, 750W PSU: Corsair SF750 SFX Platinum 750W Case: Cooler Master MasterBox NR200P, Mini-DTX, MCB-NR200P-WGNN-S00, White Fan: ID-COOLING NO-9215 PWM 92x92x15, 2500rpm, 33dBA, 44CFN, 0.16A, 9215M12S x2 Fan: Be Quiet Pure Wings 2 PWM 92x92x25, 1900rpm, 19.6dBA, 33.1CFM, 0.32A, BL038 SPONSORS - none INITIAL PROBLEMS 1) if use glass window GPU can be placed only on the bottom; 2) NR200P not fit water cooling on the top - need modify top; 3) RTX 3080 require PSU minimum 750W and on market exists only one SFX PSU with 750W; 4) GPU and PSU produce hot air that must be vented from the case - need to place additional fans, and turn PSU direction to hot air out; ACTION and FINAL SHOTS I uploaded all shots at the same time, becouse my build is already finished. There is final shots and detailed shots of modified parts. Also shots of temperature meterring while gaming Crysis Remastered - that loads RTX 3080 very havy. CREATION PROCESS DESCRIPTIONS 1) Remove redundant plastic from the top panel. See images with top panel. 2) Remove one of the four fan mounts for each water cooling fan. The mount that is above the memory. This will allow you to place the fans above the memory. 3) Move the PSU so that hot air is blown out towards the side panel. Trim the PSU holder slightly to fit into the holes on the case. Fix PSU on fron panel. See picture _AZ73759_.jpg 4) Put two thin fans 92mm on side panel for output air; 5) Put one fan 92mm ob back panel for input air; 6) configure processor for overclocking = +13%, PWM managment for all fans = silent; Its all. See results. Small ITX case with glass window, RTX3080 inside, completly silent and cold. Thank you.