[Scratch Build] R-Kaid-Revelation COMPLETED!

[quizz_kid]

Revelation

For more final pictures, see below.

Video demonstration(Music credits: Turrican scores performed and supported by Chris Huelsbeck)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Da8c2uauncA

Making of video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AEdmc-Pgw1M

Revelation is basically a huge game archive. This is truly my biggest project so far, and it’s going to be one :) of a machine.

I started this build in June, and my goal is to have it fisished in November. I've put more than 1000 hrs into this build already, so enjoy the recap!

Some features:

- A dual gaming system

- An intergrated 500 ANSI LED projector

- A transparent 22†LCD that will, while having the function of a regular monitor, also display a beautiful water cooled PC system underneath.

- A decent soundsystem

- A turning foot stand

- Two wireless joystick gamepads, stored and intergraded into the main console like pulling drawers in the front.

- A modified wireless wooden keyboard/mouse setup that will rest upside down on top of the chassis when not in use.

The color concept will be black stained walnut, black and copper, so there´ll be a lot of wood working and some finer copper processing.

Here is a very rough low res sketch:

Planning:

There's a lot of stuff going into this build, so the construction have to be optimal. It was a real pain to design it, and took me over 3 months. The case will be divided into two segments, vertically.

PC Specs:

CPU: Intel i5 3570k

Motherboard: MSI mitx Z77IA-S01 Inet Edition

PSU: Be Quiet! 550w

RAM: Corsair Dominators 2x4GB

SSD: 2x Corsair 240gb disks

GPU: ZOTAC GTX670 AMP! 2GB

Water cooling:

CPU: Alphacool NexXxoS XP³ Light - Acetal Edition

GPU: Alphacool NexXxoS NVXP Nvidia GTX680

Pump: Alphacool DC-LT Ceramic - 12V DC Pro with plexi top

Radiator: Alphacool NexXxoS ST30 Full Copper 360mm

Res: Alphacool Cape Corp Coolplex Pro 10 - Copper Edition

Fittings: Alphacool shiny copper

Fan cooling: 7x Be Quiet! Silent Wings 2

Additional:

Keyboard: Logitech K810

Projector: LG PB60G

LCD: Samsung transparent 22†display

Joysticks: Ultimarc J-Stiks

So, let's get on with the processing.

I started by cutting some walnut

Glued them together for the side panels

Some other pieces were made for the bezel of the LCD

Pieces planed and flush

This is after some cutting. You can see I've been using laser for some of the details here. Then I drilled three holes in each piece from below, using a long 5mm drill. After that, I had to seperate the panels in 3.5º angles, so I used a dimsaw. I will have m5 inserts in the upper segemet to secure it all together. More about that later.

Here is the start of a foot stand. I used MDF and made a 800mm long piece, about 30mm thick.

Some dimsaw cutting, and I had eight pieces of cake =)

Put some old veneer on those

Well, you’ll get the idea

Then I started on some laser cut detail pieces. The laser can only go about 4mm deep into solid wood, so removal of material is a must.

You can see the fancy stuff in this picture, which means that I’m almost through.

Laser cut stuff in a pile

Close up. This piece right here is for ventilation in the lower case segment.

On to some metal work. To support the machine, the turning foot stand has to be very stable. I chose a simple solution for stability and weight, solid steel.

This is after some welding and turning.

And after some sanding… a perfect fit! This construction will be mounted under the wooden octagon later on.

Made some mountings for the radiator, which will be placed on the back of the console later on.

2mm steel bended in a 13º angle

Over to some copper processing and started on some knobs for fan control and other things.

The result.

This piece right here is for the projector. Sort of the eye of the console I guess.

For the water cooling I'll use 15mm copper piping, and these are the fittings.

I tried some pipe bending, but my pipes are too brittle, so I’ll just use pre-bent 90 fittings instead.

And here are some of the components going into this beast:

Water cooling goodies....

Aquatuning and Alphacool

For the keyboard mod I’ll use a Logitechs Bluetooth illuminated K810

And this is the transparent 22†display. In order to function it’ll need light from behind, so I’ll work with that as well later on.

This is the small projector I'll be using for Revelation. It's the LG PB60G, and it's a very bright little beamer with its 500 ANSI

... and of course I had to open her up and see how she looks on the inside.

Because of the position of the lens, I won't have acess to the focus dial when centered. So I'll have to make some kind of extension. This is where LEGO technic comes very handy =) More about this later

[quizz_kid]

Woodwork of today:

Drilled a lot of holes today. Due to some sparse dimensions, I figured I had to use 4mm dowels connecting the differnet pieces.

Here are the the parts for the lower section that'll house beamer and foot stand.

When drilling holes in the side panel parts, I made a simple 3,5º jig...

... and just slided the pieces in there. Very efficient!

Here are the three ledges that'll keep the upper structure together for now. They are tiny, and might look simple from above...

But as you can see, I've put a lot of work into these looking at the profiles.

Then I used a router for some inner sliding tracks.

From above.

Then I dry fitted the construction with dowels, just to get an idea of how it'll look like later. This is the lower section.

Upper section.

Sections mounted together

Another angle.

Continued on the foot stand today. Started by removing a lot of material below...

Had to make some special tracks because of my n00b welding skills

Put the steel construction in there and drilled som holes for wood insert nuts later

Made a cove on top and a small chamfer below, for a nice touch,

Here it is... I'm quiet happy with the result. I will paint the lower steel construction later, black I think. Or copper perhaps.

Then I started on the framework of the LCD. Made these 12mm thin walnut pieces and started to cut.

I usually complicate things, for the fun of it, and this is no exeption. I wanted the bezel to follow the angle of the side panels, and then make it a bit curved for a retro touch. Here's a simple jig for the dim saw.

After a lot of trial and error I finally got it right. These small angles everywhere are a pain.

Then I draw some lines for the curves and started sanding.

The two side pieces have the same angles, so I just taped them together for the mirror effect.

Pieces with curves.

Used the router for some round overs and then added some dowels

Glued under pressure.

Put it through the sanding master and got it down to exactly 10mm. Framework complete. Here's a dry fit.

It's hard to capture the small angles in photos due to the lens effect, but here's the bezel illustrated for a better visual.

Bezel corner, close up.

Here's a picture from the back where you can see that the bezel fit right into the sliding track I made yesterday.

Started on the keyboard modification. Cut some pieces...

I took what I had left, and had to use two differnet kinds of walnut for this one. But I'm sure they'll blend together when I put some stain on it later.

So, this was going to be a challange in terms of delicate modding. Did some accurate milling.

This is the design idea. One keyboard and one storage unit(for remote controllers and mouse) These will be snapped together with hidden magnets.

This is one of four very complex corners

The slim Logitech keyboard can't be disassembled, whitch sadly means that I can't make any surgery on on/off buttons etc. I simply had to make holes for USB charging and on/off button.

Then I realized I'd milled the USB socket on the wrong side :sigh: Well, I had to fix that.

After that, I made some drilling for those hidden magnets, mirrored on each unit.

Ang glue them together.

I aslo started making the speakers. Never made anything like this, so I just had to go with guts on this one. Please let me know if I do something really stupid here. Pieces cut.

Holes for the elements

Oh yeah, it's that 3.5 angle again. Mmmmm...

Here's the system I had in mind. The 90 angle in PVC is for some bass(hopefully) Not really sure what I'm doing here =)

Assembled fronts.

Front mounted inside. I'm not sure, but should I add some silencing material inside?

Finally, I received the slim mouse which I'm going to make into something woody later

[quizz_kid]

Update

More work on the side panels. Three brass inserts in each side


Had to look around for really long screws and found these 120mm M5 in black on ebay... which is nice!


Screwed the panels together. Time to make them flush...


Done! I didn't expect the cut hiding this well. The idea was to have a small chamfer in between, but the pieces look so nice so I'll just leave them be.


Here's a close up. It's hidden pretty well =)


Another close up... It's barely visible.


Then I added some padding to the speakers and sealed it all.


Done! Tried them out, and they sound really good as well. The port does a great job, delivering some extra bass. Some times you're just lucky I guess =)


This is where they'll be mounted, behind the side panels.


They will also provide some extra support for the chassis construction... That's nice!


Front view.


I also got started on making the mouse. Here are the parts cut.


Four sides glued.


This is where I am now. The design is some what inspired by that bulky mouse from SNES. Will put veneer on the sides tomorrow.


Off the the keyboard again. For some symmetry I made a small cut using a knife, reflecting the meeting point of keyboard/storage unit.


Made sliding backsides for good accessibility.


Another shot. Will put some "Quizz-stain-painting" on the backs later.


I had to hide that ugly black finish between the keys, so I lasercut two optional materials:


Walnut veneer...


... and a piece of brown leather. I can't decide what's best here. I guess the leather is more functional and will add some contrast. But I like the veneer as well... Hmm




And here is an idea for a problem I've been stuggling with for some time now. When gaming on the transparent LCD, the electronics/components behind the it may distract a bit. I've come up with some ideas, but I decided to go with a kind of spring roller blind modification.

This is the spring roller blind/sunshade for cars which I'll use. It's a bit too long, so I'll cut it and make some modifications later.


And the materal I'll use for the actual blind? WOOD OF COURSE!!! I've never seen this before, but it's a veneer that's been sliced up, held together by small threads on the backside. Perfect for this project.


When rolled out, it looks like any veneer...


... but if you look closely, you can see the fine cut segments, mm by mm. Amazing! It's a bit fragile, so I'll have some kind of fabric glued on the backside I guess...




started on the joystick pads. When not in use, they'll go into the chassis like pull out chest drawers, more about that later.


8mm MDF glued into the frame work, and then some nice veneer.


Then I had to cut one of the sides in that 3.5 angle... the dimsaw got the job done pretty easy.


I will have some magnets hidden in the side facing the chassis side panel, so I made a simple 3.5 angle jig and drilled two holes.


Some veneering to hide the holes.


8mm magnets inserted from inside.


Did the same thing on the chassis side panel, mirrored of course. Drilled 1mm too deep, and used small pieces of veneer to fill up the distance.


Some epoxy


On to the mouse again. I didn't like the grains on the first one, so I made a new one. Didnt have access to lasercutter this time, so had to use my machine skills for some precise milling.


First hole done...


Finished. I like the one-piece bent veneer on this one, better flow in the grains.


Then I planed a very small piece of walnut for the sliding fan grill on top(I'll tell you more about this later) I wanted to make a small 1.5mm track through it, and made this very simple but effective milling jig.



The piece is very fragile, with its 26x4x540mm.



Also continued a bit on that wooden blind. I applied some fabric on the backside and began to cut it in the right dimensions. Used two thick MDF sheets to keep it steady while cutting.


This is after cutting.


Tada!








Made the buttons for the mouse.


Made the lens protection, slightly tampered.


Here, with the copper projector fitting. Perfect fit!


Another angle.


Made a lath for the blind in walnut and glued them together.


Another photo.


Mounting holes in side panels for the blind construction.


I'm going to use bearings for the blind construction, and made two cylinders with grooves.


Here are other ingredients...


Made three fittings for the bearings in solid walnit. Overkill maybe, but who doesn't like nice looking constructions =)

[quizz_kid]

Here it is, mounted onto the side panel.

 

Here's a smaller bearing thingy.

 

Then I made a mounting/stand for the projector...

 

Some support pieces in the joystick pads.

 

Threaded M4 inserts...

 

... and countersunk screws... Jummy!

 

Drilled holes for buttons, joystick etc.

 

The foot stand is done, and I'm really satified. Copper and walnut is sweeeet!

 

Close up.

 

Kind of a big update

 

 

I stained the walnut and then glued all the pieces.

 

Here is the upper section of the main chassis. This is after some sanded-edges-patina and two layers of Danish oil.

 

Same piece, with a shot of the sidepanel. I first felt quite bad putting stain on beautiful timber like that, but after the finish it really glows. Very satisfied!

 

Here's the lower section. You can really see the fantastic job the stain/oil did on the veneer on top. Looks really old and authentic.

 

Another shot, here with a joypad/pull-out-drawer slided out.

 

The keyboard/storage unit and some walnut mountings.

 

The mouse with stained end grain buttons... I like it!

 

I wasn't sure about the walnut frame/bezel for the LCD, so I made an alternative one on MDF, painted plain cream egg white. I'm not sure what's better here...

 

The walnut bezel has some really nice grains to it, but is IMO a bit too much. I think this build needs a change in material, for contrast. Still, it's a very nice walnut piece...

 

Here's a close up of the corner. It's not a perfect joint, but it works I guess.

 

Here's the eggy alternative. I really like the contrast...

 

Close up of corner. Much better precision here, and smoother. What's your thoughts?

 

Here are the parts of my joystick mods. Since the pads are going to be low profile drawers, I had to do something abut the joystick shafts. I kept it very basic; removable shaft using simple screw on/off. Quite proud of the solution though.

 

Mounted. You can see the M6 thread for the shaft. To secure it, you just use a screwdriver from under the joystick, the backside of the pad.

 

Then I drilled a hole in the joystick from the side...

 

And inserted a thread here as well. This will let the joystick shafts be used as pull knobs for the drawers. More about that later, but I'm very proud over that design.

 

I made a tray for the PC, in birch ply which I stained a bit.

 

And this is where I'm right now, playing with components =) It's quite a mess right now, making an attemt as a plumber. You can see some of the components here; a MSI mitx Inet edition board, a ZOTAC GTX670 AMP! 2GB, both with blocks from Alphacool.

 

Here's the Alphacool DC-LT Ceramic DC Pro pump and couple of Corsair Dominators, both modded a bit. The memories got a copper paint job and the pump got some new holes for mounting.

 

You can get an idea of the loop in this shot I guess. All parts will be polished later of course. For the loop I'll be using Alphacooling compression fittings, plumbing angles and 15mm copper pipes, and they don't match that well =) So there's going to be some DIY surgery later on, without the use of welding. More about this later...

 

Here's a shot of the lower chassis with footstand and beamer mounted. Also added some copper mesh. Looks pretty cool!

 

From behind.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Took me like 25min just to cut through this little sucker. Tool steel is pain...

 

But I had to cut it, because it's going into the lens protection. Sort of a hidden little screwdriver for securing the joystick shafts to the pads. And you really don't want the bit scratching/touching the lens, so I needed at least a couple of mms for margins. I aslo found a nice copper chain suiting the theme.

 

Here's another shot... For some weeks now, all the copper parts has grown some really nice patina. I will probably polish it up before mounting, but maybe leave it susceptible for the coming years. Haven't decided on that yet. It's that or wax I guess.

 

Then I made a sliding mounting in ply for the LCD and a piece of 2mm protective glass.

 

I made this little guy just for fun I guess. It's the pulling knob/handle for the blind. Don't know if I'll use it though, I might go for one of those little gizmos that are used for opening/tightening highschool gymnastics bags. The ones that secure/releases the string by pushing a little small plastic button. I don't know what they are called though. Any ideas?

 

I painted the SSDs copper and made black vinyl stickers, to suit the overall theme. Think it looks really good, I just hope Corsair's OK with this =)

 

Some sleeved cables attached...

 

Here is a less messy picture of the PC layout in whole. Almost done, but still got the plumbing work ahead of me.

 

Try fitted inside the chassis. The tray slides in there like a charm =)

 

Here is the wooden blind mounted in place. The bearing construction works, but it'll need some modifications to be perfected. I want it smooth of course, but that's after vaccation.

 

This is the backside of the tray, with the rad and 3x BeQuiet Silent Wings secured with those 13 angle mountings I made in the beginning. You can also see that I'll use a chain of 2x PCI-E risers for the GPU.

 

Here's the four chassis fans that's going on top, mounted on this sled thingy I made. The Silent Wings has a weird mounting system, but for this perforated plate, it an ideal solution actually =)

 

Other side.

 

You just slide it in there, and gets secured in there by the a backpanel.

 

Here's from the front with almost everything mounted. Margins are minimal, as you expect when building a complex beast like this =)

[quizz_kid]

I started with the boring stuff, joystick wiring. This is not just very boring, but also very very time consuming.

The controller I'll be working with uses 2xAAA batteries, and I want to have them rechargable by USB for some ease. So I gathered the parts for the charging circuit. Some resistors, indication LED and a small DC socket.

Finished board. I'll then have a USB to DC cord connecting the pads to Revelation on the back.

Joystick mod, battery holder and circuit board mounted into the controller.

This is the wireless PC controllers I'll use. You can get these pretty cheap on ebay, no need to buy anything else.

Somewhat disassembled controller.

And here's the naked PCB, the only thing I need here.

Only thing with these PCBs are the soldering. It can be tricky if you're not good with the iron. I'm getting pretty used to this stuff, so...

This is after 45min or so. A lot of wires...

Then it's another 45min of putting it all together. The small space doesn't help.

Well, it's a mess, I know. But in this situation there's really no point of going for the perfect cable management, you'll never get there, trust me. Just making sure to steer the cables away from the battery holder as much as possible.

The backlid covers all that mess anyway, so =)

Here's the copper joystick shaft and a dust cover from solid walnut.

Mounted.

Finsihed joystick pad! The button layout is inspired from NEO GEO, my fav system.

Now I just have to make another one :sigh:

I also received some new stuff for the motordriven jalousie shade. Both 12V motors are about 50RPM. The bigger one is more sturdy I guess, but I hope that the little sucker to the left is enough. Would save a lot of space in there later.

More coming...

//Quizz

After I had made the second controller, I started on the USB to DC cables.

Here's the original cable...

A little soldering...

And here's now a USB to DC cable.

By now some of you guys might notice that I have a wild passion for coiled/spiral cables. Just can't get enough of them.

Here's the cable connected PC-to-controller, on the back of Revelation. You can aslo see that I've installed two USB 3.0 ports and two copper dial knobs for fan control use.

When not in use, the controller are simply slided into the main construction, a stealth design I'm very proud of. The magnets inside automatically slides the pads into position/place with a little push, a little nice touch as well.

And when you want to kick some :), just pull them out like pull drawers.

The joystick shaft are used as pulling knobs...

For gaming, you just screw them out, and connect them on top

Another shot.

Been a lot going on lately, but found me some Revelation-time yesterday, and started on the plumbing finally. Now this isn't your typical WC installation. Since there's no copper fittings for piping I decided to try my own DIY solution, combining 16/10 tube compression fittings and 15mm pipes, without welding.

Here's an exploding view of the basic concept. 16/10 fitting + pipe support sleeve + 15mm pipe etc.

To fit the pipe support sleeves onto the tube fittings I had to remove some material.

Then I used some silicon for secure sealing. I forced the sleeves onto the fittings with the use of a hammer.

To secure and seal the piping I used one layer silicon / one layer epoxy. No welding needed.

Pipe secured onto fitting, very DIY...

Here's one pipe module finished.

Some patina's been growing onto the parts over the last couple of months.

Got my hands dirty with some Autosol...

It's not Attila, but shiny enough for me. Here's a picture of the pipework and cable management in symbiosis.

SATAs and 24-pin connected. A perfect fit around the pipe is a job well done I guess.

Another part of the loop, close up.

A shot of the loop in whole. It looks really good IMO.

Here's the idea:

When I was at it, I decided to give the dial knobs a bit of polishing as well.

Leak testing tomorrow, fingers crossed :lol:

[quizz_kid]

Hi guys.

Leaktesting is done, and the results; no leaks... that's good news I guess. The pump(Alphacool DC-LT Ceramic - 12V DC Pro) is not as quiet as I'd hoped for though. Any suggestions there?

I wanted to try the little actuator for the new blind construction and made a small cylinder thingy from brass to secure the cord. The actuator is soooo tiny(3mm shaft), and I was very skeptic of course.

Some epoxy and a suited o-ring, and it's done...

... and this is the first test. The tiny actuator actually works, and I was suprised how smoth the blind moves up&down. But as I though, the blind itself is too small, vertically that is. AND I've noticed some cracks in the wooden segments...

tR_gGpY8WHU

... So I made a new blind. This time in a creamy heavy-duty woven fabric(canvas like). The wooden blind was a nice touch, but for sake of life-span, canvas is the better choice here.

Close up. Will install it tomorrow, and with this fabric, I think I'll face an even smother blind movement.

//Quizz

Finsihed the keyboard mod today. Decided to go with the veneer overlay. Some shots below.

This is the backside, when docked to the storage unit. This is also what the top of Revelation'll look like.

And inside the storage you'll find mouse and other Rev accessories.

The storage can be used as an optional mousepad, although it's a bit small.

I actually manage to silence the pump just by removing the second screw, that is, having it mounted with one support. So no custom box needed, although I 'm pretty temted, just for the sake of it =)

Now, I some of you guys might get disappointed, but I ditched the plumber work and got regular clear tubing instead.

The reason; Although the leak test turned out great, I simply don't trust my epoxy solution. I really don't need a customer calling me up abot leaks, just beacause I had a "visual idea"(lack of knowledge)

Personally, I'm satisfied with decision. The copper fittings really pop combined with clear tubing, and it gives the setup a real clean look.

A big thank you to Andreas from Aquatuning, for helping me out with additional fittings

Here's the new mounting for the pump, one legged support only. Doesn't make a sound =)

I got this "black" coolant delivered to me yesterday. Yes, the bottle really says "black". I would call that purple, but that's just me I guess??!! Surprisingly, I enjoyed the color, a lot =) Copper and purple, now that's a match!

Then I picked up this RGB LED strip module that I'll try for lighting inside chassis.

Module mounted, with LED dimmer.

I also finished the volume knob...

and secured the eye of the build, a lens protection in copper...

//Quizz

[quizz_kid]

First, I made a physical SATA-switch, for the two system setup.

Then I decided to have the fillport on top, and welded a G1/4 fitting into the top mesh.

I had to remove some material from two of the top fans to make place for the fillport.

Then I just repainted the mesh.

After that I painted those blue 6-pin PCI-E connectors copper.

Received my new flat riser today, a special 20cm with extra 12v boost. The 30cm(15+15cm) riser didn't work(as predicted) and this was my last hope...

As you can see behind the panel, it's a much better lenght. So I prayed to the evil god...

... and did a testrun. And YES, it worked!! This is soooo releaving, a fail here would jeopardised the entire project. The SATA switch works as well. Very very happy today!

Decided to try paint the riser copper.

I like the result!!

Sooo... With one big obstacle out of the way, it's onto another one, the bind construction.

My construction with pulleys workes, but not ideally. Due to the tiny amount of space up there, and the size of the pulleys, the blind doesn't go far enough and leaves aprox 7cm of the components uncovered.

So this is my new idea. Another shaft on top, attached directly onto the motor. This way, the blind can be pulled up further, leaving only aprox 2cm uncoverd. Plus, both sides of the blind will be given an equal amount of preassure.

Only thing is, To give the motor some space, I'll have to put a hole in one of the side panels of the chassis. Well, I can just cover it with something nice I guess...

Some more progress:

Made the upper axis shaft for the blind construction. Since it will be visible, I choose copper of course. I will try to test this new construction next week.

Here are close ups / Left=bearing / Right=motor

And here's the top piece mesh, repainted.

4x120mm fans mounted. You can see the fill port in the middle.

And here's a test fit with the keyboard/storage unit on top.

Another shot...

Here's a VGA cable for the projector which I had to mod some, due to some lack of space.

And here is my "lens-focus-dial-extender" Tech Lego and some distance pieces, all very DIY

Here's how it works, pretty simple...

Just use the lens protection/screwdriver...

... and adjust the focus by screwing. Quite proud of the solution :dremel:

Intstalled the PSU today, the Be Quiet! 550w. Just realized I got lots of cables in this build. Got the PC setup, projector, speaker system, LCD, lighting modules, joystick pads etc... Can't believe I'm actually going to fit everything in there.

Here's a shot where you can see the two holes for cable management. The mess you see here are cables for some switches and the projector.

I installed the LEDs. Decided to have two strips for increased lighting, and then use the dim knob for reducing if needed.

Some strip soldering.

Here's a quick test using the remote. Red...

... and blue.

Then I continued on that new blind contruction. Here are some cover pieces in walnut...

Outer side panel. The small motor is mounted into the cover piece with epoxy, a perfect fit.

With everything installed, I attached two cords to the blind. This was actually very tricky, and took me about two days to get it right. First I had to find the right type of cord. Tried several, fishing line, boat rope, regular sewing cotton etc. I realized I couldn't use any elastic cord, due to the weakness of motor I think. When using fishing line, I got sort of a springback from the tension. I finally got it right using this one, a natural string.

Getting the alignment right took me several tries, but here it is.

You can see the space I had to work with here. Between fans and shaft there's aprox 2mm of margins.

The transparent LCD need backlight to work, so I had to place the sprips with presicion. Here's the blind pulled out to its limit, and you can see the light strip sneaking up just in front of the canvas.

Last shot it with walnut bezel installed. I'm happy I managed to get the blind up as far as I did, covering almost the entire screen. The blind construction has been a real pain, but this is what you get when adding a new element this late in a process.

Now I have to find and install some limit switches for the blind...

[quizz_kid]

Well, seems like the Feser Black UV is pretty sad when it comes to UV reaction. I thereby decided to ditch the UV idea. Well well...

But I have an update:

First, I made some minor adjustments in the loop layout. Removed one of the res mounts, moved the res a bit more to the right. This was to get the fillport centered.

Here's another shot. As you can see I've drained the loop. Will make a refill when everything assebled.

A 2mm sheet of glass...

And here's the transparent LCD, finally ready to be mounted inside the chassis.

A good fit I suppose. You can see the PCB of the LCD touching the blind construction. No margins, what so ever =)

Short flat cable, HDMI.

A pretty good fit there as well.

Then finally, I could put the two chassis segments together and see the resluts of 1000+ hrs.

The backside, well, need some serious cable management. There's cables EVERYWHERE, don't know where to start really =) Give me few more day...

Until then, here's some quick tests playing with the RGB strip.

Green

Purle

//Quizz

[quizz_kid]

Over 1000 hrs went into this machine. Had a lot of setbacks in the end, but I guess it was worth it.

Well, here are finals... Hope you'll enjoy!

R-Kaid-Revelation

Video demonstration(Music credits: Turrican scores performed and supported by Chris Huelsbeck)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Da8c2uauncA

Making of video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AEdmc-Pgw1M

//Quizz

[ggsonic]

1337!! The best wooden case mod I've ever seen!!