"Light Glass"

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"Light Glass"

Welcome to my next project " Light Glass " .

As the name suggests, I will in this project an ATX Acrylic Case construct in which a lot of acrylic glass and some aluminum is used.

Here is a little taste of what I had before .





Is perhaps not very impressive but better than on a piece of paper and when you see what I have done from my last project , I am hopeful .

These are the very first 3D models I've ever made ​​.


The Concept:

My concept is as much transparency in connection with frosted acrylic glass front . Some contrasts are decorated in white,silver and minimal black .

There are transparent acrylic tubes 16/12 are fitted with white coolant .

The transparent housing should be kept as small as possible and just cover the hardware .

In the base should still find a 360mm radiator square next to the power supply and a DVD / Blueray drive.

The Hardware:

Mainboard: MSI Z170 Titanium Edition
CPU: Intel Core I7 6700K
Ram: Avexir Raiden 4 x 4 Gb 2400Mhz
Grafikkarte: 2 x MSI GTX 970 4GD5T OC
SSD: Avexir S100 Series
Power Supply: Cooler Master V 750


The Water Cooling:

Pump:
CPU block: EK-FB MSI Z170A XPOWER TE Monoblock - Nickel
GPU block: EK-FC970 GTX TFX - Nickel
Terminal: EK-FC Terminal DUAL Parallel - Plexi
Reservoirs: EK-RES X3 250 - White
Radiator: EK-CoolStream PE 360
acrylic tubes: EK-HD PETG Tube 12/16mm
acrylic tubes fittings: EK-HDC Fitting 16mm G1/4 - White
fans: 3 x Silencio FP 120 PWM
Winkel: CoolForce 90° drehbarer Anschluss Adapter G1/4

equipment:


Keyboard: Cooler Master Quick Fire XTi
Mouse: Cooler Master Reaper
Mousepad: Cooler Master Swift-RX L
Headset: Cooler Master Sirus 5.1
Fan: Thermaltake Riing White
Stepper Motor 28BYJ-48
Driver ULN2003
Ultrasonic sensor HC SR04
90db buzzer
keypad
Arduino Nano
infrared receiver
capacitor 1000 microfarad
Wiederstaand 470 Ohm
div. Pins Connectors
Digital RGB LED Strip WS2812B
remote
RGBW LEDs

So much for my basic idea .

The planning and preparation has been underway for several weeks , the details will follow shortly !


I hope you like the idea and you supported me wherever they can.





Sponsored by



​

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So then let's go .

Bending former No.1:

Since I am quite at the point at the beginning of my project and do not know how much more will happen to me , is the motto SAVE !

Needed angle and something round , what I found ?

Leftovers from my Dreamy Water Framework and an old leg a bar.

From this could be determined to do something , I thought.




So I first halved to 2 angle trim the square of the length .

And the table leg tailored to length .



Now everything interconnected , clean at right angles , of course





That looked so far quite good , because I was working on an actual bending device ( which we refer later ) , I have ever tried the simple method .

The object to be bent is clamped at the other end a few clamps and stretched HEATER with the heat gun , then exercise gravity .



Has so far also worked quite well , but the result was more than unsatisfactory .





Even though I ( was the test object can also totally wrong clamped ) at the point with more patience and better technology could achieve a more beautiful result ,

but was aware that the radius absolutely not my needs are met . So brainstorm was only times announced.

At the point I can also help me of you .

Since one always get your best ideas while working there went with the

bender No.1 on.

The I had ever seen in Ali and I thought this must be but can extend over a larger area .

So my first issues .

Ab bought the hardware store , wood and angle at Ebay a reconditions Wire , Kanthal wire , constantan wire or guitar strings . All usable , I bought the first two .

Now two boards with angles associated with so much distance that suits the wire in between.



The angle completely wrong mounted from below rather than from above and off-center but right-aligned . I had unfortunately found only after weeks toturial in English .

That's why I was able to try out my new router at the point times , the last was at Aldi offer .

The limited hours is often come to use .

Someone said : Those who buy cheap buy 2 times !!

I say Who buys expensive , not builds . Because he has no more money !!







from underneath





even a stop at an angle mounted ( also wrong again , which is slightly rounded bottom as can thin plates slip purely and due to temperature difference is the choice of material also not optimal , I have him replaced by wood )



On the surface I have glued aluminum foil with spray adhesive .

And I just could not find the correct power supply I had simply times tough connect the wire to 220V here . : pillepalle :

Were NEN mighty bang everything was bright and so it looked then from : : lol : Do not TRY THIS !!!!



Well, after I had corrected all errors , instead of aluminum foil I have folded a steel plate and bonded with Sikaflex , seen the whole like this:

Since the correct power supply had only ordered because you get a PC power supply only a maximum of 40cm to glow I made here my first attempts ( no hair dryer ) .

The PSU has the way the bucket during this experiment . ? (



because I could not heat up long enough for the defective power supply , it with double-sided heating (in addition with hairdryer ) also works much better and I have the temperature difference to the bending form is not observed, these results were not satisfactory .



It should be noted : The Kanthal must 'll tensioned with a spring over the entire length in order to keep the tension .

As the leading power at the ends of a slotted screw very well because on the one hand align the position and the height can be adjusted other .




Well as you could see in the background already, the development phase was nearing completion and I was able to start the Beta phase.

The bending device NR.2 (the edges of acrylic glass)

Following the example of my first attempts I could see the small bender create no problem.





Since I have the plexiglass plate is always heated on one side only at the beginning I was able to create a clean edge but on the edges there were small cracks despite adequate temperature.





Heating by both sides, in addition to a hot-air hair dryer / blower, I was able to increase the quality still is many times

rounding right


the same on the bottom right


Here are the AC Power Adapter that I've bought for about 20 Euro at EBay. 24V 15A



and although there was nothing in the description can be there even rules of 18-28V




So now it was only create The final shape for the side part.

Housing depth is about 24cm which should be just under 5cm deducted for the cables behind the motherboard (incl. Wall thicknesses) remain 19cm.

So I decided for a radius of 16cm! :whistling:

Even if I wanted to press yes to the work, did not help, it had to be a professional form.

Again from the hardware store, be advised that some wood quite well can be forms, I know it not still but something they have sold me, and it has also worked quite well.

So 8 boards only times the radius penciled:





Then it was time to cut







all ground still plan





now milled recess for bracing







and glued together





yes I know I need a lot more and much bigger clamps



Now here again applied the glue and glued to be bent shape



I thought it breaks through, because it was really stiff, but worked fine



So, apart from a few bending tests my preparatory phase has been completed and I'll probably order tomorrow the material. :thumbsup:

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So on we go :

The required Material

has finally arrived .

The acrylic glass for foundation



The acrylic glass for the showcase



and the aluminum profiles for the foundation



So then , I immediately to the skeleton for the Base made.
All parts cut to size , filed a length and deburred .
Then all the parts were connected together , cut with thread M3.






The protruding screws will I later cut all and probably glue with liquid metal.




So you can even make you a better picture of the size , here's a comparison to my Cooler Master Cosmos 1000 !
Clear a Midi Tower I need not put beside it, which would be just as large as the base .





Next, I am Polishing practiced me something and the cube made ​​with the I'll screw the acrylic sheets in the visible range with each other .
Since I have cut to size of the cover , an industrial expansion tank , 3cm cubes .





With the blow torch to it has been seen in the photo , I've tried me once in flame polishing , but that did not work .
The has no constant power .





First I have the sawn edges sanded by machine dry with 180 and 240 paper

and then worked my way up to 320 , 400 and 600 wet sandpaper .

Normally, one should not go to the 2000 paper but that I had not and the result is sufficient for this purpose .





Then I worked on all surfaces until the blue and then the red polishing paste with a polishing felt .
Not to conclude with a car polish and a cotton top .
Left to right



I love the result , for my first attempts not so bad .

Should 3cm cubes later look too chunky I will this reduce to 2cm .



So it was time again for the time being .

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SSD Tray

Really good pictures I have not done since I again seemed to me a little clumsy .


So here I have made myself familiar with the first direction of the router,found the whole mass, how far the stop must be removed from the router etc.
milled first time with a V - groove cutter , the depth of the tray.



Then we continued with a chamfer cutter



looked pretty out unevenly,until I had it only once halfway again sanded smooth





Now I've worked my way again with180er,240er,320er,400er to 600er sandpaper high.













There is still no master fell from the sky!
I like it but better than expected.

On the back I'm still a little hollow mill to integrate a LED stripe there.

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In addition to my preparations for the Game City has also done a little in this project .

I have received a Packet:



Thanks hereby





for the great support.

There were definitely some nice stuff in there






3 x Silencio FP 120 PWM to cool the 360s radiator in the base.






Then the Swift-RX Lmouse pad.

Next, you can still see the Reaper mouse.



very cool packaging



White LED lighting fits perfectly to my concept .

I believe I will change a few things .







The lighting in the front acts like a flashlight in the dark .




then the Sirus 5.1 Heatset.
The previous best wearing comfort which I had by all Heat Sets.
That says a glasses with big ears
(comparison to G35, medusa NX,Creative WOW,steelseries 7H)










last but not least the Cooler Master V 750

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And on we go....

Now that I have the power supply , I could obstruct the same , but I just had to put an additional angle








Then I realized my idea of a new Reservoir Holder, In addition I have cut off a 80 / 70mm tube obliquely



cut and a slightly oblique hole, everything sanded flat and smooth










The oblique neck was not very symmetrical,I have already revised,
but I am not yet come to grind because I lack even an acrylic rod of the I will build the holder.
The entire tube gets then from 3 sides a 5mm threaded around the reservoir to fix with screws.

Because I want to anyway have a slightly riveted look outside,(So all 5-10cm black screws) all exterior parts interconnect,
I had to tinker still a few angles for (the polished cubes are only for securing the curved lid).
So I could not take my bender equal test times again and broaden my experience with acrylic glass.



The front I additionally heated by the hot air blower to provide feed for uniform temperature.







The result was quite good until here, I would have just left the tempering, since all angles have fully cleared so I could do it all again.

The angle measure I have subsequently sawed cope



ground and deburred all edges





works better than by hand with this grinding holder so I could avoid to round the edge.



since the ends have but bent a little high, I will shorten this yet



Finally, as I understood now everything had gathered around me to build a sliding door, I was able to assemble the track yet.
For that I had to put something back to the top corner from the base frame

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Here we go finally on.

The first parts for the water cooling arrived.



is so kind to support my project. Thank you.

First, the EK-HDC Fitting 16mm G1/4 - White and the EK-AF Pass-Through G1/4 - Black











Then the brand new EK-RES X3 250 - White













and the EK-FB MSI Z170A XPOWER TE Monoblock - Nickel

which then also clear that motherboard comes in this mod for use.













Next, the window which I received a while ago.

Thus, a heartfelt thanks to firm



for the discount and support.









Before I continue working on the case right, I'm going to color-customize your mouse, keyboard and headset for the concept.
These are as quick as possible Updates!

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Peripheries

First a huge thanks to



for the discount that allows me the beautiful mod.

Also a thank you to



for the provision of peripheries.

First, the Quickfire XTI keyboard.

After some fumbling I got the keyboard but then dismantled get without damaging them.
This I then taped.
After I cleaned it was primed with a special plastic primer and then painted 2 times with champagne pearl plus 2 layers of clear coat





The Reaper mouse I could completely disassemble all parts and paint just like the XTI.






Now the headset Sirus 5.1.

Here absolutely nothing worked.
Firstly, many parts of the housing are plugged in and clipped these were then but back melted to leave to make way for other parts.
Thus I could not disassemble optimally to work clean the headset.
On the other hand went here with my coat absolutely nothing.



Unfortunately, it is not the color which dissolves there but the plastic itself, with every clean the surface it will only get worse.
I have it sanded best and just hammer out by many smaller operations.
A masterpiece, this is not, I know absolutely not what I can do there yet, since all other paints to make any liability to the plastic.

The earcups I dyed with leather color, this process I had to repeat almost 10 times until the result was fairly satisfactory.




The head pad I covered with my white leather




Done, so here are the results.
The XTI got a completely white Keycapset, a silver set of internal keys, Silver Arrow and Caseking ESC key.




















On Case I have to continue working, more accurate about this soon!

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So now again an update .
I had still been missing some dice, so I was mostly busy when next to the dwarf was still time.
Is really very time-consuming, error does not forgive a so something else must be to start from scratch.



so I could finally start all parts together.
So all the holes have been drilled and cut thread



and then everything bolted together



Now I could see the radius exactly on the side parts transfer.



this I then Generously cut and attached to the motherboard tray



exactly my first mistake has already crept in.
I should have put the tray in advance, because the tray pushes the window a little higher and now the left side is cut too short.
For Tray I did not shorten.



well again, I had a piece of what I've already tried everything possible.
So penciled



cut with the circular saw



and again transmitted the radius and set holes
much better



now ground and polished sides







when I wanted the other side to polish then I noticed this, damn grrr



Okay, more Plexi I did not lie around, so order new :thumbdown:

Over the holidays, it was a bit stressful, Visiting and often unfocused but I wanted to necessarily move forward

The dice front bottom I also misplaced since it still needs the ground purely



but not as bad as I already said at the beginning, I'll possibly even collapse later.





so now it fits.
still just as much space that I can forward obstruct an angle with lighting.



I was definitely not idle, incidentally, I have the create clipping masks and convert in DXF files concerned

Here are just an alibi image





The main reason were the side panels.
My original ideas do not fit in.
Well, ultimately, I decided for a kind stucco with which the side parts are covered.
But then I was able to take the blended plate
Saw set on level and off we went





for rounding but I had no frosted glass longer there, even at the next order with at.
So I have to try it a XT sheets of HB-wood mouse radicals Packetes taken.
Here then I could also equal to something work with the scroll saw,



and now we were off!
All edges bevelled to 45-50 °, it is a mess, there is no vacuum cleaner also helps :whistling:





here on the last picture, all edges are finished either already with 400 grit sandpaper.
The rods I make again as soon as the glass is there, then I'll stick the strips to the side panels




This month I will definitely still the first hardware to buy so that I can finally edit the tray.
So, see you soon !

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Here again a little bigger update from me .

First I continued working on the SSD tray.

Here I made a hole for the LED Stripe.







And the mounting holes for the SSD.

























For the S-Light i cut the angle and painted it.













After a long think, i painted the Fans.

I hope the color will fit with the color of the mainboard.

Now the mask work again, and again.







Now the Plastic primer, looks like glitter Spray xD











I like it. I already tried two silver tones, but this one i liked more.
The 3 Cooler Master Silencio Fans for the Radiator.

















And here a Thermaltake Riing to get a nice Airflow inside the Case.
I disassembled the Fan to paint him without the LED ring.















Now i continued the work on the Socket.



I cutted out the Cover





passt







Then put holes, cut thread and screwed.











Now it went to the back of the base.

For the 360mm Radiator i cutted out 3 holes







And i set the holes in the side of the case.







Now put all holes for the screws and cut threads







The aluminum profiles i had to adjust.







The final touches i make when it comes to the paint







the same I did with all the other sides .

Here I cutted out the power supply opening.







and here the white plate .
The entire base gets 2x 3mm Plexi . A white plate as a light guide and a black as a cover










Here is the all arroung view












Where the openings are, the white plate is 3mm smaller than the black one.

I’ll polish the edges at the very end. Who knows how many times I’ll break something







I’ll edge the overlap later, but still keep an offset, comparable to what I do around the PSU.








Here is the cut for the sliding-door’s rail










And this is how far you can open the door






That’s it for now.

I started working on some other details, but due to lack of materials thigns are on hold for now.

To keep the log clearly laid out, I’m am going to post about these details once I’m done with them.