Gary Murphy Posted April 9, 2017 Author Share Posted April 9, 2017 I decided to try out the 240GB ASUS Raidr Express. RAIDR Express is the world’s first and only PCIe-based SSD that features two BIOS chips and an onboard hardware flip switch, letting you alternate between legacy and UEFI modes. The card itself is small and the appearance is a sleek red and black. The card even includes an attractive backplate to cover the PCB card. Here the card is mounted on the motherboard between the two GTX 780 Ti video cards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Murphy Posted April 9, 2017 Author Share Posted April 9, 2017 ASUS recently released the ROG Front Base Dual-Bay Gaming Panel and I will be using this for fan control and one-click overclocking. Here the unit is mounted in the front panel, along with the NZXT Hue. The bottom empty bay will be closed off with the 900D cover. I also installed a custom illuminated back plate created by ColdZero. It fills the empty space left when I removed the hard drive bays. With all of the hard drive bays removed, I decided to mount the SSD drives on the side of the 5.25" bay assembly. First, some holes had to be cut for the cables to pass through. Both SSD units mounted cleanly and with minimal cables being seen. To keep a clean appearance, I closed off the back of the 5.25" bay area so that all cabling is covered. I mounted the motherboard into the case to prepare for wiring and tubing configuration. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Murphy Posted April 9, 2017 Author Share Posted April 9, 2017 Here are the power cables before any sleeving is done. These are primarily the 24-pin main, 4-pin CPU, 8-pin CPU, and 4 PCI-E cables. I am using the MDPC-X toxic green and black sleeving material. I really dislike heatshrink material since it is rather difficult to get them lined up correctly. For this build I decided to try the heatshrinkless method that was developed by LutroO and demonstrated in his videos. This was by far the easiest method to do and rather enjoyable too. It took me easily half the time to finish the 24-pin compared to the traditional heatshrink method. I am using some of his stealth cable combs to help dress the cables. Here is a shot of the 8-pin CPU power and 24-pin main power cables. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Murphy Posted April 9, 2017 Author Share Posted April 9, 2017 Made some more progress this week. Reassembled the top filter with the powder coated cover and installed it back on the computer. I love the complementing colors! Here is another shot of lighted back cover piece with the NVIDIA logo. Connected the top 8 PWM fans to the PWM splitter that will connect to the motherboard. You can see the reservoir fill port on the back of the motherboard tray. The ASUS ROG Front Base and NZXT Hue are just waiting to be powered up and used. The mid-plate shelf is ready and the pass-through ports drilled. I should be installing it this weekend. Here is the current state of the build. Close-up of the motherboard area with the sleeving installed. The heatshrink-less method is by far easier and faster than the conventional method. Love the end result! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Murphy Posted April 9, 2017 Author Share Posted April 9, 2017 I mounted the pump in the bottom compartment. You can just see the non-vibration foam pad I placed between the pump and the case bottom to minimize any pump vibration effects. For the case bottom I decided to use EK-ZMT tubing since it will be hidden and the bends are difficult. Here is the tubing prior to any installations. This tubing is very nice and solid. I highly recommend it! I installed the second 8-way PWM splitter behind the pump. This splitter will be used to connect the lower 6 PWM fans to the motherboard. I was also able to mount the mid-shelf in place and secure it. Cleanly hides the lower compartment with all the PSU cables and pump. Here is a shot with the lower side panel closed. The tubing is completed for tonight! Here is a side shot of the pump with all the tubing connected. The section of tubing in the front left of the shot is a drain tube with shut off valve and stop fitting. Front shot of lower tubing. Purchased the Primochill Rigid Acrylic Bending Kit shown below. This kit includes some Acrylic Cleaner, cotton gloves, cleaning cloth and tubing insert. Was surprised to find that the tubing insert was hollow and not solid. For accurate bends, I also got the Monsoon Hardline Pro Mandrel Kit - 3/8 x 1/2 (13mm). Now this is a very professional kit with some of the nicest tubing angles I have seen. It includes 45 degree, 90 degree, 180 degree and 360 degrees angles machined out of aluminum. The tubing insert in this kit is solid! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Murphy Posted April 9, 2017 Author Share Posted April 9, 2017 Wow! This was my first experience with working on acrylic and it was definitely tedious and demanding. I have done many builds using the flexible tubing and they were a breeze. A typical flexible tubing installation took only about an hour or two and it was done. No mess or confusion. You must respect the PETG acrylic tubing and take your time if you want the result to come out decent. I spent the past two days measuring and bending the tubes for this build and learned a lot. I purchased eight 36" tubes for this project and ended up only using four of them. I only had a few 'mistakes' and they were short sections, so the waste wasn't all that bad. Here is some shots of the tools I used for the cutting and bending of the tubing. The Kawasaki heat gun was a dream to use; so quiet and it heats the material evenly. I used a dremel to 'fine tune' some edges and smooth out some of the rough edges left after cutting. For a smoother end, I used some sandpaper wrapped around a block of wood. To get inside the tubes, I used some good ole' pipe cleaners. Here is that trusty dremel after a few tubes are completed. You can see some of the mistakes in the background. Here are some of the fittings used to connect everything. Twenty of the Primochill Revolver fittings and a good assortment of Bitspower compression fittings. After two days, here is the result. I have a fan ring off and disconnected some wiring and memory during the installation. Used a handy funnel for the filling process. Now for the leak testing phase. Only the pump has power applied and it is whisper quiet! You just cannot have too many paper towels in this phase. The only leak occurred in the first 30 seconds and it was on the reservoir. The bottom rubber gasket of the glass was not seated fully and a small amount of water leaked. Took about 15 minutes to disassemble and re-seat the gasket. Now fully watertight! I will let the test continue for another 24 hours to ensure everything is fine. In the past 4 hours there has not been a single leak of any acrylic tubing or their fittings! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Murphy Posted April 9, 2017 Author Share Posted April 9, 2017 Well, it has been over 15 hours and not a single drop from any fittings or tubing! I thought it was time to add a little color to the toxic green right side case panel and the front panel. I used a high quality vinyl applique of the NVIDIA logo to match my theme. Here the applique is being centered on the panel. The vinyl backing slides easily off, while the applique remains firm. Applique centered and ready for the case. Now for the front panel. Without a small graphic at the bottom it looks too plain. I created a smaller version to match where the Corsair logo was and centered it appropriately. Here the magnetic side panel air filters have been re-installed. Here are some shots of the exterior with the new artwork. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Murphy Posted April 9, 2017 Author Share Posted April 9, 2017 I have to agree with the majority and have come to dislike the bright red SSD cases. It really detracts from the overall black/green scheme. I played with a few ideas and came up with one that does not void the manufacturer's warranty but still covers the red appearance. I created some vinyl decals that completely cover the SSD but are removable if the drive fails. This keeps the warranty intact should I need to replace a faulty unit in the next 3 years. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Murphy Posted April 9, 2017 Author Share Posted April 9, 2017 I spent the past 2 weeks preparing for and attending QuakeCon 2014 in Dallas, TX. The event was a large success and the case was well received. This build was designed and built for the Classic Case Mod competition held at QuakeCon every year. This event draws modders from all corners of the globe and the competition is fairly tough. There are 3 categories (Classic, Scratch-built and Id/Bethesda-themed) and the entries included a wide-ranging variety of projects. I came in 1st place for the Classic Case Mod category! I won in 2012 with my QuakeCon 800D build and I was a judge for the 2013 contest. Now that the competition is over, it is time to sit back and play some games on this new build!! Here are some photos of the completed project... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Murphy Posted April 9, 2017 Author Share Posted April 9, 2017 The case made the cover of the September issue of CPU Magazine! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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