Wargames - WOPR

[RandomDesign]

The second project, I want to present for this competition in another scratch build.

Used hardware:

Mobo: MSI Z370M Gaming Pro AC
CPU: Intel I7 8700K
GPU: MSI RTX 580 Gaming 8G
Memory: TeamGroup Delta R 4x4GB
PSU: Coolermaster V700
AiO: Thermaltake Water 3.0
Fans: 2x 60mm Cooler Master (they really have no name on it)

 

It will be the computer called WOPR (War Operation Plan Response) from the 1983 movie WarGames.



I will change the scale factor to fit it on a desk. Should be something about 75 cm in length.

The LED effects will also be included, but not as many as in the original

To start the project, I made a 3D model in the scale factor I want to build later on.
The 3D model will also function as some kind of template later on.

 

 

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I went  into the 3D model and prepared it for printing.
The model was separated in individual parts that will fit my printers heat bed.



Then my printer started with the first parts.



Looking good so far. Now going for the rest of the parts.

 

Now after some hours of printing, all parts are done.



Already started to sand every piece and smooth out the surface as best as possible.



Bevor gluing all parts together, I am now making a test fit of all the parts to see
if everything is right.

 

 

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After the test fit, I started to glue each part permanently
into place.







I used a flat MDF sheet as a gluing surface, to make sure
all the parts are 100% straight.

After some time and a bit of adjustments the basic construction
is now finally done.







Now, I just need to fill in all the gaps and work slightly
on some more areas to make it ready for the paint job.

[RandomDesign]

To make the entire construction more ridged, I clued aluminium profiles to the bottom of the case.
Now it will be easier to mount the Wopr to a base plate. I also don run into any issues with the PLA breaks
under the preasure of the bolts I will use to mount it to the base.







Next, I used a material called EpoxAcoat.



It is an epoxy that can be applied with a brush and after 16h of curing time
becomes rock solid. This is a great way to strengthen up 3D prints from the inside.







While the epoxy dried, I printed the doors.







To make the doors fully functional and not only decorative, also printed some handles.
Just need to minstall a small mechanism on the back side now.

 

 

[RandomDesign]

Doors are now completely processed and ready to be primed and painted.
I also included a small magnet on the backside. As you might notice, I changed the position of the magnets.
I was going to install two at the upper part but changed my door mechanism so I only need one at the bottom.
Will see how things turn out.



Then I started to fill in all smaller gaps at the main body. Hopefully, I can finish up this step
during this week.

After all holes and gaps were filled, I started coating everything with multiple
layers of spray filler.





Now all the tiny gaps and holes become visible, so I covered some areas again
with spot putty.




 

 

[RandomDesign]

While the spot putty dried, I started to work on the inside.

To make it nice and sturdy, I used 12mm oak plywood. All parts were glued and screwed together.
I also included all openings für cables and fans.





For an easy installation of the hardware, I removed and cut an mobo tray and put it into place.
Now the Wopr can hold ITX and mATX mobos.



Also a first test fit was made. In contrast to my concept I can istall a "normal" size GPU.
For my final build however, I will use a small ITX GPU. In addition, I will maybe add some more
holes underneath the GPU for a better air flow. At the end there will be two PSUs included. One for the
computer and a second on in charge of the LEDs so they can wor independently.

 

 

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Unfortunately, after wet sanding, I got a little issue with my bondo.
At the edge it seems that two layers havnt bonded very good.
A small part chipped... After investigating a bit more, I just sanded the area down to the PLA
and applied new bondo. Finished up with spray filler. Now it looks like nothing happend at all.







For a better air flow inside the Wopr, I cut in a couple more slots.
They are positioned right below the GPU, so nothing should get to hot on the inside.





I also rounded the edges, just to make the transition between the base and body part a bit smoother.





The edge will be painted the same as the body, so I prepared it already.

 

 

[RandomDesign]

The original WOPR has a bunch of lights. If I am not mistaken there are rougly 666 bulbs on the front and back.
I tried to get the basic outline of the arrangement, but scaled it down to fit my size.

The paneles were machined for me in the specific layout I wanted. Before applying the paint, I sanded the
surface to make the primer stick a bit better.





While the silver paint was drying. I worked on the LED part.
I ordered a bunch of LEDs and transistors. For this project, I will use 533!!! LEDs.
Each individual LED was pre-tested to ensure its working correctly.

So far, I only got 6 LEDs that had some malefunction.





Then it was time to solder a 0,1 uF capacitor to each LED.



And hours later.



After it was done, the LEDs were glued in place.



And of course more soldering. Now I connected the Data IN and Data Out of each LED.





Done yet? Close but not so fast my friends.
Also the plus and minus needed to be connected. I also made a quick test if each row is working.







First panel done 3 more to go.

Finally LED panels are done.

 

 

[RandomDesign]

I 3D printed small clips were the panels should rest in.





To hold them in place, I cut a tread into an aluminium profile and glued it to the inside.
Now, I am just using a small bolt, washer and wing nut to prevent the panel from moving.







And more pictures now from the outside.

 

I soldered connectors to each pannel, so I can install/remove them independantly.



Later each pannal should be controlled by one pin of the arduino, But for testing, I just chained them together.
When in full RGB mode, the power supply is strong enought to power all LEDs up to 50%.
Anything higher and the 40A arnt enough



For a first test, I installed the pannels to the case and run the Neopixl strandtest.
I reduced the brightness to 20% which is more then enough. Maybe I will tone it down even more at the end.

And again a small reminder, if someone wants to get involved into the project, I am still searching
for help, for programming the LEDs. Lets say I am very new to this topic.







I also started with the cable management. I only have to add the power ine for the pannels and I am ready to go.

 

 

[RandomDesign]

I started with one layer of grey primer.





The mod will be painted on multiple steps, area by area, so I started with the bottom sorounding.
The color chosen by the client will be a light grey tone.

 

To get the most perfect finish, I sprayed
only some areas at once with an airbrush. It was directly followed with some layers
of clear coat.





Because Gray color on a Gray primer has a very good contrast, here is a picture were you
can actually see the difference.



And then the paint job was done. Next up, the doors.

 

 

Next, I made the doors. I started with some layers of gray color and clear coat.



I designed and printed an opening mechanism. After processing it was painted silver.



And then the doors were done.



Also made a test if everything fits.



Also made a test together with the LED panels. Now only some small details are missing.