"Low Rider"

WiP PC Modz · October 31, 2020

Hi! I am John Patrick Sy Wong of WiP PC Modz from Baguio City, Philippines. I've been modding PC since 2013 and been joining local competitions and Rig Shows around our place. PC Modding has been my passion and hobby, that until now, I am still learning and developing my skills. I love exploring different techniques and making unique projects/builds. I have joined #CMWS for the past 3 years, and every year, I keep on learning a lot. Gives me that "push" to strive harder and work harder. You may visit my Facebook page (https://www.facebook.com/WONGinPROJECT) and Youtube channel (https://www.youtube.com/c/WiPPCModz) to see some projects and builds that I've done.

In this year's competition, I am joining the scratch build category. A brief intro on this project I will be working on is based on some vintage cars, particularly the concept of a Chevy 60's Impala. The project will be named: "Low Rider".

Be sure to stay tuned for updates. Enjoy the mods and good luck to all

WiP PC Modz · October 31, 2020

Part 1 - The Plan

Sorry I have no idea on using drawing softwares so I just made a sketch on how the project would look like.

This scratch build is not just a system unit, but a complete set-up with a built-in monitor and speakers on it's trunk at the rear.

When you pop the hood, here you can see the hardware located.

And under the chassis, I will be integrating actuators to replicate the hydraulics of the real "Low Rider"

Now all you need is a keyboard and mouse, then you're ready to play games or even have a party with the sound system on it's trunk

This project is made possible by MSI, Team Group & Cooler Master. Huge thanks to our partners!

HARDWARE LIST:

MSI MPG Z390 Gaming Pro Carbon AC

MSI MECH RX 5500XT

Team Group T-Force Night Hawk 8gb x 4 (32gb)

Team Group T-Force Delta Max 250gb

Cooler Master MasterLiquid ML240L

Cooler Master MWE Bronze 550w

Li-Heat PCIe Risers

AOC E1670Swu Monitor

Intel Core i5-9400f

WiP PC Modz · December 4, 2020

Part 2 - The Chassis

In building a car, we usually start with the chassis. This marks the beginning of our project.

I ordered a metal sheet with checkered pattern, together with 4 actuators to be used on 4 wheels that I bought on our local hardware store.

Starting from scratch, I made a sample using a folded paper, this is to easily determine the exact measurements and guide me where I should cut out some parts on the metal sheet.

I measured, cut and folded the metal sheet using combination square, triangle ruler, angle grinder, mini hammer and pliers.

I don't have a welding machine around my work area, so to join the edges together, I used a drill, vise grip (to hold the portion where I made some holes, and a riveter.

The part where I will install the actuators needs to be reinforced so I used an old case (side panel), folded it to the right size and portion plus some scrap aluminum bar to hold them together.

Next is to cut some opening at the back for the placement of the trunk (cover). On the sides for the doors, and on the front, where the radiator of the Cooler Master MasterLiquid 240L will be mounted.

Now the metal work is done, it's time to sand and file the chassis to remove the sharp edges, rust and to smoothen the surface.

I wanted this chassis to be chromed out. Actually the shop where I ordered this patterned metal sheet offers a stainless(shinny) variant, but it's way out of the budget. Stainless is very expensive

Chrome dipping is also expensive on automotive shops, so I think of a cheap solution on how to make this chromed, a metallic sticker .

I used a lacquer thinner to clean the grease, dirt and particles on the surface so the sticker would stick on it firmly.

With the help of a heat gun, it made the sticker soft, enough to mold on to the checkered pattern design of the metal sheet.

Not bad with the result right?

Next is the actuator installation. I cut the mounting hole/brace of the actuator on the bottom part because I want to install it fixed on the chassis without any other movement except up and down only.

Before wrapping the chassis with metallic sticker, I pre-drilled some holes where the actuators will be positioned. (also added few holes on the front and back part of the chassis because I want the hood and the trunk to lift up and down automalically, so a total of 6 pcs of actuators will be installed.)

Next are the wheels installation. But before that, in order for the actuators not to split later on when this car mod is finished while it goes up and down, we need to make a frame at least to hold them in position, just to be sure on the quality and sturdiness of this project we are making. We don't want this base to be broken later on when we finished installing everything.

To make this frame, I used a full threaded rod, S-hook, nuts, stainless tubing, eye bolt and thick cable ties.

Again, because we don't have a welding machine, I improvised on how to join the full threaded rod and an eye bolt together using thick cable ties.

I have tested the strength of these by pulling a heavy object, just to make sure everything is in place and it won't pull off easily when forced. The thread of the eye bolt and threaded rod holds each other together specially when it is tightly compressed. Now, the purpose of the stainless tubes is to conceal the ugly look of the threaded rod, plus it serves as a double lock on the cable ties as it adds grip when inserted to the stainless tubes.

Next, the S-hook. Because it is impossible to install the threaded rod directly to the actuator's mounting hole, we needed a "daisy-chain-like" mount so that the actuators can freely move whenever they are activated. I bent the S-hook 90 degrees and locked them to the eye bolt we installed on the threaded rod using this bench vise.

Now the frame is done, it's time to mount it on the actuators using threaded rod that I cut earlier and nuts.

Now the wheels installation..

Now we are done on the under part, It's time to move on to the actuator's switches. Using acrylic sheet, we made a custom control box, imitating the design of a real hydraulic control box from Low Riders.

By the way, that silver , irregular shaped thing on top of the acrylic are magnets. It will be useful later on when mounting the controller to it's place.

And now some painting and stickers

Wiring setup..

All wires done. The Switch, USB 3.0 hub and 6 toggle switches all connected. Before finalizing the design, I added another aluminum bar on the mid front part of the chassis. this aluminum bar is installed with piano hinges ( for the hood mounting) and some magnets also to hold the controller we made.

Now for the final touch of the controller, we cut a sticker using Silouhette Curio with WiP PC ModZ old english font.

And there goes our controller.

Now the Chassis is done, here's some still photos testing out our "Low Rider"

So, this ends our part 2 work log. Be sure to check out the video link to see the live action process of this chassis

MonsterMawd · December 7, 2020

thats dope AF dude....

WiP PC Modz · January 7, 2021

Part 3 - The Trunk

On our third part of this project, it's the Trunk part. As we all know, Lowrider cars are mostly customized. Their trunks usually contains LCD monitors, amplifiers and speakers instead of grocery items or baggages. So we replicate that kind of setup. To begin with, I cut a portion of the metal sheet on the chassis. The purpose of this is to make the back part a little bit lighter.

Then I made 2 mounting holes for the power cable extensions. One for the power supply, the other one is for the mini amplifier.

The speakers I used are the old, damaged ones lying in our storage. I just managed to repair it, rewired some ran off wires, took off the mini amplifier from it's original case then remade a compact one.

Next is the mount of the power supply to the chassis. here I used an old PSU bracket then mounted it on the chassis. By the way I am installing here a Cooler Master MWE Bronze 550w power supply.

Beside the power supply, is the mini amplifier.

And then for the covers, I used sintra board. Why sintra board? because it is light weight. Plus it's easy to cut, then easy to stick it with velvet cloth. Yes I won't be painting it, I will be covering it with velvet cloth, just like a real car trunk texture.

For the part that I cut earlier on the chassis, I will be covering it with purple acrylic. I also installed rubber door guards on the edges of it.

Next are the speakers. I also took them off from their original case then made a custom box using also sintra board.

Some Super Glue to bond it...

After cutting and shaping the sintra boards, time to cover them with velvet cloth. I used rugby to stick the cloth. Color purple to match the color of the exterior, as I am planning to paint my low rider purple.

Before installing the speakers, I reinforced the inside of the sintra board/boxes with body filler/putty.

Then repainted the speakers to matte black..

When the body filler has cured and the paint has dried up, it's time to rewire and install the speakers.

Now all the speaker boxes are done..

It's time to install them all to the trunk

Lastly, time to fix the cover on top of the power supply and the mini amplifier..

Clear acrylic for a window to show off the power supply

Alright we're done on the trunk part!

Check out also the video link embedded above for a time lapse on how this trunk was finished. See you guys on part 4!

WiP PC Modz · January 8, 2021

Part 4 - The Engine

A car won't run when there is no engine. Same goes with computers, so for the part 4 of our project, we have installed all the hardware that will boot up our Low Rider.. But before we start assembling the components, we made some covers "under the hood", this is to avoid any contact on the metal parts of the chassis to our precious components that may cause ground/damage. Starting off with this divider that serves as "dashboard" on the interior part.

Bent it using heat gun, then cut parts where cables will pass through using rotary tool.

Painted it with matte black..

Then covered the other side with white leather..

Installed it with blind rivets..

Next are the sides. Again I used sintra board. Then instead of painting it, I used vinyl carbon stickers. This is to match the design of the motherboard.

Next is the motherboard tray. Here I used 3mm thickness clear acrylic.

Test fitting the MSI MPG Z390 Gaming Pro Carbon AC.

Installing the intel core i5 9400f...

Affixing the motherboard/motherboard tray "under the hood"..

Next, the Team Group T-Force Night Hawk ram installation..

For the cooler, I modified the Cooler Master MasterLiquid ML240L. Changed the tubes to silver color then reduced the length to make it exact where I will be mounting it.

(video worklog on how I changed the tubes is embedded above )

Installation of the cpu block, fans and mounting of radiator

By the way, before I fixed everything on its position, I connected a 12v RGB connector going outside just in case I would install led strips later on on the exterior part of the car.

Next, the MSI Mech RX 5500XT installation.. Not the regular mounting on the PCIe slot, I used a Li-Heat PCIe Riser so I can place the GPU turning upside down, with the PCIe on top so we can make and install a custom shroud/cover, showing off our sponsors. Before that, I removed the bracket that is installed on the GPU to save up some space.

For the shroud/cover of the PCIe riser, I bent acrylic, cut and painted it to purple..

I Used Silhouette Curio for the logo and letterings..

Okay so everything is installed. here are some snap shots of the "Engine"

If you are tired scrolling and reading, I made a time lapse video that is embedded above. keep modding! Do what you love to do and see you guys on part 5!

WiP PC Modz · January 8, 2021

Part 5 - The Interior

Alright so we're done with the chassis, the trunk and the engine, here in part 5, we'll be doing the interior of our low rider!

First off, the installation of the Team Group T-Force Delta Max SSD on the "dashboard".

Then some managing of cables before we cover it..

Next, the wrapping of the edges with white leather.. I still used rugby to stick the leather on to the surface.

Also I used chrome door guards, for added design/accent, plus it helps hold the leather on hard to stick corners.

For the floor matting, I still used sintra board and covered it with purple velvet cloth to match the design/color of the trunk. Plus it adds contrast to the white leather.

Next are the car seats. Still I'm using sintra board to make the frame of the seats, then covered it with white leather. I used staples as an alternative for gun tacker to attach the leather.

When test fitting is done, I affixed the seats with scrap aluminum angle bar and screws.

Next, I filled it up with foam..

And the leather seats are done..

What else are missing? Steering wheel and auto gauges

I made some with the use of acrylic. I copied the Team Group logo on the steering wheel to match the SSD.

Painted them with gloss white..

For the gauge, I painted the circles purple, then attached some "bling bling" to replicate the dials.

Then for the steering wheel, I attached it to a stainless rod with rubber stopper and screw on the tip which will serve as the stand/mount..

Lastly, the installation..

And this ends the part 5 of this work log. See you on our part 6! Mod on!

WiP PC Modz · January 31, 2021

Part 6 - The Body Kit

This is the last stage of our worklog, the making of the body kit of this Low Rider project. For the body kit, I mainly used acrylic instead of sintra board like on the interiors of the build. Why acrylic? simply because it is more rigid than sintra board, it is paintable and can be bent using a heat gun. The bending is important because it will show the shape of the car and emphasize the design. So to begin with, I started on the trunk cover.

I used chloroform to stick the acrylic together, I made a frame to make the trunk cover reinforced because this will serve as the monitor mount.

Sand,prime then top coat... The color that I chose to paint it is a metallic blue violet.

When the paint dried up, I added some decals to camouflage the mounting screws.

Then proceeding to the installation...

Next, the rear fenders.

In order to install these fenders, I made some "sliders", in this manner, I can easily remove the fenders whenever I want to repaint it or if I will change some parts inside the Low Rider.

Next, the doors and the front fenders..

After installing the fenders and the doors, next is the hood.

Now the windshield...

Now we're getting close, time to make the tail lights. I bought some bike reflectors then used a chrome spray paint's cap to make it as the holder of the reflectors, in this way, it will replicate the design of the Low Rider car's tail light.

Then the rear bumper. I wrapped it with chrome stickers to make it shine

To mount the bumper, I used a car plate number holder.

Next, the Headlights and the grill.. Same as the tail light, the cover I used are bike reflectors then house it on a chrome wrapped grill. then for the grill itself, that's a stainless BBQ grill scrap that I cut out.

Next, the front bumper.

Body kits are set. I added some chrome trims (door guard) under the fenders for added highlights.

Lastly, the decals, emblems and tire painting/lining.

ALRIGHT WE ARE DONE!! it's so fulfilling and satisfying to complete a project.. will post outdoor and final shots later on. Thanks for following our project from beginning til' now.

be sure to also watch the worklog video linked above for some live modding action time lapse

WiP PC Modz · January 31, 2021

#CMWS20Finals

So we've come to the end of our 3-month hard work on this project. It's good the project turned out as planned, and finished just exactly before the deadline . Once again, I would like to thank Cooler Master for this opportunity for us to showcase our humble talent all over the world. Also thank you to our sponsors, MSI, Team Group and Cooler Master who supported this build.

Now I proudly and humbly present you, my "LOW RIDER"! enjoy and goodluck to all!