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Projeto Titanfall


PCROOMBRASIL
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Projeto Titanfall Sempre gostei do design do jogo titanfall, o design futurista e as linhas diagonais chamam minha atenção então após observar os desenhos do jogo comecei a construir possíveis projetos. Trabalho da seguinte forma, sempre que estou olhando para algo, sempre me perguntando se combinaria com algum projeto que estou prestes a fazer.
 
 

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Edited by PCROOMBRASIL
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When possible, I prefer to do the structural drawing when I already have the pieces, because this way I can take the measurements and I can in the sketchup get closer to the reality that the project will become. Luckily for me, I got all the pieces of the project well before his planned delivery. In this way, I was able to take measurements of all the components, so that I could assemble the drawing. Specification of the parts that were used in the project:

Aorus Elite X570 motherboard

AMD Ryzen 5 2600 processor

Galax HOF 1080ti video card

Ssd Delta R Team Group

T Force Team Group Memories 32gb (4x8gb)

Cooler Master 850w 80 Plus Gold Full Modular Power Supply v850  

Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 Full Cooper 360 mm radiator

6x Fans Cooler Master 120mm Masterfan SF120R ARGB

2x Cooler Master 140mm Fans Fittings of various brands (scarce in brazil)

Block CPU Barrow

Block GPU Bitspower

Pump Bitspower

Cooler Master Cosmos C700M Case

Custom reservoir.

When I put all these pieces together, I started putting together the project. Because there is no model on the internet and due to the difficulty of assembling the case design, I used the main structure only as a parameter to observe how the project would look, I disassembled the entire cabinet to know its details as well as the possibilities of assembly.

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Edited by PCROOMBRASIL
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I ended up opting for the second one because it would not be as polluted as the other one Besides believing that it combines more with the external design.
The idea of the design was as if the components concentrated in the middle of the project gave the idea that there is the main component of the machine, which is kkkk. when I drew, I tried to make something that goes under the impression that it would be floating, so to support the main part I used only two supports, one in the lower right corner and the other in the upper left corner. as the pictures exposed above.

 

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Well, as I drew as I would more or less like, I started designing piece by piece, being precise in its measurements, and as I was cutting the main bases, I was already assembling the pieces.
  I used only acrylic for the construction of the structure. I used plates of 15, 10, 5 and 3 millimeters.
Luckily for me, the motherboard had an exact model for sketchup. So it was easier to get a real sense of how it would look in the surroundings.

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After the basic design of the project was ready, the first thing I suggested to do was a different CPU block, for that I used a barrow block. No use gentlemen, I do not accept the simplicity kkkk I really always want to show something different. Lately there are some models of blocks that in addition to cooling the processor, it also performs the cooling of some components on the motherboard. But still wanted a bigger challenge kkkk, why not a block that cools the CPU the components the SSD m.2 and its output is directly to the entrance of the GPU Block, it would be incredible right?
Modesty part I must say that these things require great precision and a certain level of madness, in case something goes wrong, there is a great possibility of burning some component or even losing some part.
I designed the piece taking into account the aspect of the game.

Here are the photos to note here that for every drawing a cutting plan has to be made, this is a hassle. Follow the block cutting plans and I can point out that there were more, these are the ones that were saved.

 

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Edited by PCROOMBRASIL
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I used the Barrow CPU block, I took the measurements of the surroundings and placed it very tightly in a 15mm thick environment, then I used a 10mm acrylic as the surrounding cover, I made another cover that redirects the liquid that comes out of the block to pass this surrounding and cooling the motherboard components and then cooling the ssd m.2 after a lot of work, I managed to assemble it, hear several mishaps, but in the end everything went well. I used 5mm copper sheets to make the cutouts that would cool the components, taking the measurements, the sheets had to decrease their thickness, and I lost a 4mm cutter in the cutouts, I still understand how the material should be cut, for via doubts I tried to do it in the safest way. Unfortunately my CNC Router is not one of the best ones causing a lot of inconvenience during the cuts.
During the cutting process I broke the acrylic piece of the original block, I had to make another one. Sad and laborious lol.
To cut the copper I put the following speeds.
I used a straight cutter with 4 cuts for carbide, the speed was around 25000 rpm, movement z 400 mpm (millimeters per minute) movement x / y 600 mpm, each step of 0.2 mm all this with the nebulizer connected to cool the cutter and workpiece. I reinforce that all of these are ways that I use through error and trial, if someone can give me tips to do that I appreciate it. To fix the copper piece I use screws on the sacrifice board and also double-sided tape.
For the cutting of acrylic for roughing I usually use double-sided tape only. Use 4mm helical cutter (suitable for acrylic) with a speed of 2300 rpm, speed. y: 1200 speed. x / z: 1500 with 1mm pitch. After roughing, use speed: 23000 rpm, with speed. y 600 and speed. x / Y: 800 with 0.5 mm pitch.

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Eu uso o programa sketchup para os cortes, ele tem o sketchucam que possibilita usar o desenho nas linhas de corte, construindo o código g para o corte. O programa que controla o roteador CNC é mach3.
Ultimamente tenho usado os parafusos m4 de cabeça chata escareada de aço inoxidável de 12mm. A cabeça tem 8 mm de diâmetro, então faço um furo escareado com diâmetro de 8,5 mm.
Quando eu faço uma vedação de borracha, geralmente deixo um espaço de 40 mm entre um parafuso e outro. Eu uso borracha de 2,5 mm de diâmetro para a vedação. Eu uso um sulco profundo de 1,8 mm e um sulco de lateralidade 2,5. Esta ranhura está pelo menos 1,5 mm afastada da ranhura através da qual o líquido passa.
Repito que sofro com o meu Router porque por mais que o regule e a prancha de sacrifício às vezes corta a profundidade dos sulcos com medidas diferentes, às vezes atinge a vedação.
Para esse projeto, a vedação da parte inferior fiz de forma diferente, por falta de espaço, comprei uma borracha de 1mm de espessura e fiz um corte do tamanho da peça no corte que entra em contato com o acrílico. Até que fechou bem. Porém, para não correr o risco, passei cola nele.
Então o Bloco foi diferenciado, rsrs, como forma de agradecer o apoio que a empresa EK tem me dado, coloquei o Símbolo dela nesse bloco kkkkk.

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Edited by PCROOMBRASIL
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