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USS EURISKO - Intrepid Mark II Class


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I solved the problem with the huge "sunroof" bleeder and those on the sides.

I will use a reflective insulation tape (actually layed the plastic underfloor in my living room with this) It weighs nothing compared to the thick layer of filler, it seals all the bleeders, it reflects the warmth coming from the hardware inside the case preventing the foam to become an insolator and also reflects the light from the leds so the inside is better lit.

Just wanted to share this pic before sealing all the bleeders.



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This the effect of sealing the all the bleeders. Just not sure about the way it looks. Any thoughts ?



EDIT: Oh yeah, I need to change the position of the IR receivers for the microcontrollers as the signals probably will not get through anymore.

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Here is a small update

The Epoxy clay is in and I feel like a kid again ...

(only wished I payed better attention at craft class,lol)


I was first planning on heating the depron with a small oven to about 90 degrees celsius and then bending it for the rims of the case. But after a small test last week I found out that my hands are not fireproof (How could I forget that :hurt:)

So the Apoxy Sculpt Clay is giving me the flexibility I need and will make for a sturdy rim after hardening.


Here is an overview with all the lines on the canope. Took some time but now I can "fill" every thing in with the depron/Apoxy combo.







This is the fun part ! I was really looking forward to the detailling of the canope.

You can just see the case come to life before your eyes.


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Here is another short update !

Gotta keep the wheels turning for the may deadline of the coolermaster contest

Still a lot of work.


A little jump forward, I was so concentrated on the work, I forgot to take pictures





Slowly but surely its starting to look like something!


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Finally had some time to translate. Be prepared , this is going to be a big post!



Doing the lining is very important or else you can find yourself a fat centimeter higher on the right side as you can see on this picture. Did have to do my best to get this resolved, but success!




Here are some detailed pictures of the Apoxy Clay



Took some pics this morning of the caly work of last night. Even though I have not done anything with Clay since I was like 10 years old, the work is progressing nicely.

The trick is to let the clay harden a bit before putting it on. That way when you apply some pressure it doesnt turn to mush when you're being a bit to forcefull. I am thinking when everything is finished and sanded and painted you wont be able to see the difference between the clay and the depron.



A guy on another forum asked me what the reason was I used clay instead of depron for certain parts. Here is the answer!

Thansk for asking! Took some pics this morning.

here is a plate of depron and a A4 piece of paper. Will be using the paper as I am carefull with my depron :wink: (this depron is 3 mm thick btw)


To bend a cornour is relatively easy. Done this with my wife's hairdryer, a heatgun or paintstripper, although the heatgun and stripper heated the depron to quickly which buckled.


But its not the only bend I need to make. Esspecially the nose is a complex collection of curves and bends. If you would to bend the depron like this it would be possible to cut out the wrinkles and make the pieces to fit but the front would be covered with straight lines and it should be a perfectly smooth curve!


I tried different techniques, from heatguns to hairdryers to little ovens, I even boiled the depron but i just wouldnt work or turn out the way I wanted it. The clay does all that without bruning myself.



Small update on the work yesterday


Here is a good example why the depron work can sometimes take so long and you have to redo certain parts.

Nice and straight line right? I put a line in with paint for clarification.


Guess again !!!! Due to all the different curves I almost have to start to think in 3D!





Well that was it for now,



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Here is an update on the LCARS Fancontroller.

After spending several hours cutting out the final pieces from the panel it looks like this. Put the LXE next to it to give an idea of the layout.



I ran this front through the CNC of a friend of mine but the result is not completely there yet. There are little pieces curled up in the corners that i just can remove. Tried a heatgun (almost ruined the whole front with it as the rapid heating caused the thin element to buckle), scalpels and a soldering device. Just isnt the cleanness I was hoping for.


Gonna try lasercutting the front now!

Keep you updated!

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Here is another update.

Got tired of the depron work and descided to go and do some hardware work.

This is my first serious build and I was able to get some execellent hardware.


Lets start with the Gigabyte motherboard. Isnt she pretty with them golden accents and good eye-candy factor!


Unfortunately I am going to have to do some work on it. I want to completely Watercool the EURISKO and I will have to change out the stock motherboard cooling elements.

This one is going in the cabinet with special hardware at the office. Beautifull piece of technology!


And these I hve to fit onto the mobo. From left to right; EK Mosfet Waterblock, Koolance 370 CPU waterblock and finally the EK NF200/SB Waterblock


Installing them took about an hour. Always a fine fiddly work work with them standoffs


While installing the 2600K the first thing you notice is the split in the processor socket.


I am not going to push the setup to its absolute limits (but I will give it a good run) So I opted for 8Gb Corsair 1600 CL7 RAM. Looks good and has ditto reviews, so we will see!


Also fitted all the Bitspower fittings. Which Fittings? Well these :



Credz to Vincent!


This is how I am intending to fit all the hardware. (a plexiglass sheet will cover the mdf)


Put the tubing in its place also to see if I had enough. Need to order a couple of feet more!




Well that was it for today, thansk for watching!


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Thanks guys!

Unfortunately I have run into some bad luck with the build.

2 deliveries that were crucial for the advancement of the build have not arrived yet (eg large plexiglas panel en de the led/microcontroller)

I was only able to do some very minor things that are not very interesting and I am running behind schedule big time!

Also I am a bit of a perfectionist so I hve descided to rebuild the whole tail section with new warp nacelles casings and mdf work.

Could have left it as it was. It did look ok but I am not aiming for just ok, LOL!

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