mojūku Studio

Introduction I’m a university student from TARUMT, Malaysia . My passion lies in DIY crafts, particularly the art of building computers. I run an online store called Mojūku Studio, where I create and sell wood-based projects. Hence, I'll be naming this project with the same name - Mojūku. In the past, I participated in the CASE MOD WORLD SERIES 2022 by constructing a PC from scratch. My project, “CincaiLah - Myvi, King of The Road", that took the form of a hatchback car. Despite having limited experience in PC building and modding where I gained mainly from YouTube videos and online tutorials, I fell short of my own expectations for the project. Now, with the return of CMWS24, I’m excited to tackle a new design and layout while moslty be using the same PC parts from my previous build, but this time making it to be Tower Mod! Hardware Specifications These are the hardware that I am using for this Project. CPU Cooler - CoolerMaster MasterLiquid ML240L ARGB V2 Case Fan - 2x CoolerMaster MF120 S3 120mm ARGB MOBO - GIGABYTE B450I Aorus ITX CPU - AMD RYZEN 7 3700X GPU - GIGABYTE RTX 2060 6GB DDR6 ITX RAM - 2x Kingston Hyper X Fury DDR4 3200MHz 16GB SSD - Silicon Power NVMe PCle Gen3x4 1TB PSU - FSP Hydro PTM Pro 650W 80 Plus Platinum Full Modular PSU Currently, I'm still working on the drafting phase, I'm planning to design 2 different PCs, one from scraft build category, and this one for Tower Mod. Stay tuned for updates!

Introduction: I’m a university student from TARUMT, Malaysia . My passion lies in DIY crafts, particularly the art of building computers. I run an online store called Mojūku Studio, where I create and sell wood-based projects. Hence, I'll be naming this project with the same name - Mojūku. In the past, I participated in the CASE MOD WORLD SERIES 2022 by constructing a PC from scratch. My project, “CincaiLah - Myvi, King of The Road", that took the form of a hatchback car. Despite having limited experience in PC building and modding where I gained mainly from YouTube videos and online tutorials, I fell short of my own expectations for the project. Now, with the return of CMWS24, I’m excited to tackle a new design and layout while moslty be using the same PC parts from my previous build. Hardware Specifications These are the hardware that I am using for this Project. CPU Cooler - CoolerMaster MasterLiquid ML240L ARGB V2 Case Fan - 2x CoolerMaster MF120 S3 120mm ARGB MOBO - GIGABYTE B450I Aorus ITX CPU - AMD RYZEN 7 3700X GPU - GIGABYTE RTX 2060 6GB DDR6 ITX RAM - 2x Kingston Hyper X Fury DDR4 3200MHz 16GB SSD - Silicon Power NVMe PCle Gen3x4 1TB PSU - FSP Hydro PTM Pro 650W 80 Plus Platinum Full Modular PSU Currently, I had just started the designing process, it's still under drafting and I'll be focusing on the elements of Malaysia! Stay tuned for updates!

FINAL SHOTS Special Features: Thank you, to the people who helped me through this entire journey, and you for reading. It's been fun!

Day 20 - FINAL ASSEMBLY Disassembling my current PC, and today my friend came over to help the final assembly Cleaning off the old thermal paste on the CPU with alcohol swab and cotton bud Unboxing new components All of the computer parts I'll be using for this PC Case Assembling the basic shape of the case Placing the PSU and connect it to the the custom Modular Cables Screwing the brackets that holds the bottom case fan Placing the GPU and connect it to the PSU Place the CPU and applying new thermal paste Placing the AIO CPU Block and lock them in place Placing the Motherboard and connected the PSU Cables Managing the cables, connecting the fan hub, the ARGB Cables, and arranged them using cable ties Screwing the wheels in Plug and Play! It is working!

Day 19 Nothing much on this day, I brought the whole case to the workshop to make some slightly adjustments and corrections or repaint any spots that are missed.

Day 18 After all the paints are completely dry, I decides to make a test fit for one last time before the actual assembly and also roughly worked on the cable management. Also note that the AIO CPU Block was sticking out as I'm only gonna replace the cooler and the thermal paste on the final assembly. **Note: I borrowed ARGB Ram sticks from my friend to make it look better, they are not the ram sticks I mentioned in the specs.

Day 17 For the wheels, I've bought two pairs of 90mm diameter RC Car wheel, they looked really awesome but rubber tyre part is way too soft, it flattens whenever it's loaded which doesn't look great. To solve this, I've tried stuffing papers, cloths or even tiny wooden pieces in the tyre but they all didn't really worked out for me. At the end, the perfect solution for this is to cut some hard sponges into the shapes as shown in the picture with the width of the inner part of the tyre and stuffed them in evenly. To secure the wheels onto the case, I used the same M4 threaded inserts as the connector for the wheels that came along was also M4 in size.

Day 16 I used a drill and a router table to make a slot that holds the PSU power cable extension plug. Then, I sand off the uneven surfaces of the undercoat paint up to 500 grid to get a smooth surface for the black paint later. For the black paint, I bought an F-75 air spray gun to paint it. I coated it 4 times to get a really glossy surface and a thicker protection to the case. I also painted the L-brackets. Then, I let them dry for 50 hours.

Day 15 For the bonet and boot, I used disposable chopsticks and super glue to make the hinge mechanism. After that, I used a brush to paint the undercoat and let them dry for 24 hours.

Day 14 To hold the motherboard in place, I used an old wooden tray to create a base board for the motherboard to sit on. I first dismantle the sides with a mallet, then used a miter saw and chisels to cut out the dimensions. Meanwhile or the AIO, I'll be using L-brackets to hold them in place. While cleaning up and smoothening the edges of the inner parts with router and sandpaper, the middle part of the side frames broke off. Luckily, the top part itself is strong enough and removing the middle part actually brought it a cleaner look. Also, on one of the edges there's a wood knot that fell off so I had to use super glue to glue it back in then continue with the process. I filled up any holes and gaps with wood filler as these planks were originally pallets, there are lots of imperfections in them. I then prepare the wood to be painted by hand sanding them all up to 300 grid sandpaper. I'll be using the white AURA Undercoat as primer and finish it with a Platone High Gloss Paint. And btw her name is Yao Yao

Day 13 I found out that the screw head was sticking out which was blocking the doors. I had to drill in bigger hole 3mm in depth for the screw's head to tuck in. I also used a router and chisel to make the motherboard slot wider. I then used a belt sander and angle grinder to shape the doors to fit in the frames. One of the back door cracked during the process so I had to glue them back. After that, I used a jigsaw to cut out the unwanted inner parts from the side frame, then smooth the edges out with a spindle sander. At the end of the day, I did another test fit and everything fit perfectly. The parts that I ordered, which were custom PSU modular cables, PSU power supply 3-pin extension, RGB strip, fan hub and vinyl wrap have arrived.

Day 12 Since the gap between the frame is 15 cm but the motherboard is 17cm wide. I had to route off both inner side of the frame 1.5cm to get a slot for the motherboard, I purposely made it 18cm to make it easier for the placement. I also chiseled out the corners of the routed off slots to get 90°corners. For the GPU I'll be using a U shaped Pillar to hold it in place. I also installed steel L-brackets on the sides connected to the front and back bumper. I also made a fan bracket to hold the fan at the bottom of the Myvi, the width of the wooden piece allows the fan to slide in right away, it can even be attached without screws. Then, I disassembled my current pc took the parts out and did a test fit with the frames. The fit was overall ok except that the slot for the motherboard was a little bit too tight, I'll have to make it wider.

Day 11 I also cut out wooden pillars of 15cm with a miter saw. I then prepared the pillars by drilling holes into the center of the pillar vertically to fit the threaded insert. I also used bigger pillars to make the front of the car and the back bumper. I clamped the wood frame together to check if the screw holes are aligned and used a 3.98mm drill bit to re-drill into the holes to make sure the bolts fit. I then sanded the edges of the wood with an angle grinder while they are still clamped together to make sure they are symmetrical. I then carved the front bumper and the boot too.

Day 10 The broken part glued up perfectly, so I continued removing the inner parts with the router. For the top part, the depth was 3cm, and for the bottom part, it was only 1cm I depth. As for the wheel housing, I also used the router to cut out 2cm depth. I also shaped the additional wooden blocks that were added on Day 9 to match the width of the original frame. After that, I used a handheld belt sander to sand the frame to give it the curved in shape. The edges of the door were also sanded with a spindle sander until it can fit in the frame.

Day 9 I printed out another template with extra door templates and cut them out to paste them together on the wood. I then used a router with a 6mm remove bit to remove the inner part of the car frame. However, the top part of the wood frame broke off when I was using the router as the side frame is too thin. To fix this, I glued the wooden part that was cut off to join the broken part. I also cut out the door pieces with a jigsaw. At the same time, I also noticed that the back and front of the frame was actually not long enough so I glued some wooden blocks to the front and back to extend it.