Timpelay

Well hello there you sneaky PSU. Finally time for some tubing! Love this part as everything gets connected. Beautiful gold fittings combined with chome brass hard tubes. Choose between chrome and gold tubes but as I went for the full Nickel block and the silver GPU block I think this suites way better than full gold. I will make two parallell arrows of tubes for the CPU. The will fit the shape of the backplate but also put the EK logon on it right in the center, stay tuned!

Side radiators got their fans mounted. Time to get all RGB sorted. Usually you have this large case with cable compartments but this one will be a bit tricky. A total of 8! fans, dual LED strips in the top, in the front and in the bottom of the case. LEDs in the graphics card water block and in the pump/res combo. So total 16 light sources. Ouf there will be cables.

Distro installed and time to put my cables through it. Started with the 24-pin. Now with the cables running through the distro I could finish the PSU end, finding the right pinout and make those 4 split cables required for this PSU. And done! Always time consuming to go with self made cables instead of cablemods or some extensions but for this type of build I thought this was the only way. Super happy that I put the hours in for this job I find pretty boring. PSU installed. Looks kind of crazy how this will be possible. But yes, it will! It even cleares without the bottom bars installed.

I replicated the exact patter used on the top aluminium of the Cosmos to use for my radiators. The panels are divided into two pieces, here with an open frame. I plan to make one with a closed window section for the hardware aswell. With the distro test fitted and me satisfied I used this wonderful glue to seal it tight. Leak tested all channels one at the time to make sure it was properly sealed. Oh yes it was. Could recommend everyone doing custom loops to get a leak tester if not already got one. The new version from EK is also worth an upgrade from the first one as it's easier to use with the flexible tube and properly graded gauge.

Thanks! Woofer is 55-28kHz. Not sure where default mode on the filter cuts it at the high.

Speakers are finished! Test played some funky notes and they performed way better than expected without any sealing, dampening, tweaks or playtime on them. SO EXCITED! Was heading to Dreamhack Winter for the Casemod Championship with another project and an opportunity to showcase the just finished speakers at Cooler Master booth/buss appeared. Lets say I jumped on it! Please let me introduce the finalized NR200CH pair of stereo speakers!

About time to finish up that bottom part of the case. Swapping out the original hard LEDs to new digital RGB strips in the right length. I cut the diffuser inserts and glued them back together. Alot shorter than before! (Workspace is getting messy as deadline aproaches! ) Got the back panel designed and ready for pump/res combo mount. Lines up perfect with the distro inside. Super easy fill and maintenance and as the case got a rear outer frame, this space is utilized in a good way and pump will barley not be visible from the side. Just look at that light reflection from the fittings. With this installed I got my hardware package located in an unusual way together at the back of the case. Absolutely love the orientation and for me hiding the cables coming from the finished PC is superb. There will be alot of space connecting them, just a little harder than having them at the back but well woth it IMO!

To complicate this build, or perhaps you can call it to make it genuine, I will keep the drawers and spread out my hardware between them. This means I have to go with cables and cooling pipes from drawer to drawer somehow. I got a plan for it. Top drawer will keep the radiators and fans. The drawer is perfect in size to squeeze in two 240 mm slim radiators with just enough space left for tubing and fittings at one end. I used a circular saw to make clean holes in the hard board. Going for round holes instead of jiggsawing a larger rectangular hole will keep the stability in the board.

Let me introduce, an old IKEA FIRA/MOPPE or whatever it was called. Got it from my mother a while back who got it from her old work. Don't really know when this was on sale but pretty damn timeless. I've kept fittings stored in it and when this idea came to me it was time for another purpose. Made out of birch plywood and hard board. So this scratch build will be something I like to call found object mod. Which suits the re-use theme perfect. The final PC aims to be great in performance, easy to maintain and should not show itself unless I want it to. Birch trees are common in Sweden and IKEA claims that today, 98% of the tree material used in their products are FSC-certified or reused. This organizer is made a while back so there's no guarantee the tree was harvested in a sustainable way, allthough it's of course is natural. I think I'll make up for that uncertanty by reusing this organizer once again. Masterfan for size.

As a custom PC designer and casemodder I got alot of questions from people at my work (structural engineer), whether I can build a PC out of anything. I haven't failed yet so I always answer yes to that one. Well about time to prove it ones again. But this time, I'll give them a little suprise. Idea: Transform a desk organizer into a custom watercooled gaming PC. A true sleeper. Hardware: Mobo - Asus ROG Strix Z490-I Gaming CPU - Intel Core i7 10700k RAM - 16GB DDR4 With EK Nickel Monarch modules on SSD - Samsung M.2 Nvme 512 GB PSU - Corsair SF750 GPU - Nvidia 2080Ti Founders Edition Fans - 4x Cooler Master MasterFan 120 mm Water cooling: EK Lignum GPU Waterblock EK Lignum CPU Waterblock EK Kinetic DDC Pump/Res combo 2x EK Coolstream 240SE Radiators EK Lignum HDC12 EK Torque Black EK ZMT 12/16 Mods: Modified desk organizer (only removed material) 10 extra screws No added materials No paint, putty or other surface treatment Minimal use of electric tools, jiggsaw and drill. Sponsors: None - Only reused hardware from prevoius projects

Tray in place and motherboard mounted! Got some fittings in there and it all looks super. Lines up perfect with booth CPU and GPU block. Tray slides in place and connects to cut outs in bottom part. At the top there's cut outs which will make the tray steady against the frame. Finally starting to get the feeling of how good this will turn out. The tray also acts as a back support for the top radiator. Fitment is everything! I really love how all parts seems to be custom made for this case, but it's actually the other way around!

I had the design for the motherboard tray and distro pretty much ready I while ago. Now with the hardware in place I could make final adjustments to get all tubes and cables lined up as I intended. Tray and the two other parts of the distro are cut from 5 mm black acrylic. Which makes the total thickness 15 mm, thin and perfect for the backside. Threaded by hand and ready to test fit! I'll glue the distro together, with some screws to keep the parts in place when doing so. As this will be invisible in the backside chamber together with cables etc. I want to use as little material as possible and keep flow paths direct.

I see the rules has been clarified, thanks!

Fronts...

More hardware work! Installing CPU and SSD to get the motherboard ready. I need to get the waterblock mounted as soon as possible to check that my measurements are correct in my 3D model. Don't want to miss alignment on cooling pipes Oh boy! The combination is beautiful. Decided to go for the full nickel block and keep the gold to the fittings.

Just checked the rules regarding winners. The Best of #CMWS22 awards will have 6 unique winner, the chosen winners will not be awarded more than 1 award in this category. I will submit projects in Tower mod and Non PC mod. Probably also in Scratch build. Does the rules actually say that if I win for example Tower mod, my entries in Non PC and Scratch can't win?

Got the panels done with plastic putty made for car bumper repairs. Which means it's very strong and elastic. Sanded them down, cleaned and ready for paint! I'm happy with the plastic these panels are made of. Easy to work with and answers good to modifications. Painting the entire panels as the plastic had some variations in color from white to off white in some places. Fresh clear and super white after a couple of layers. I've done some small amount of body work to cars and know by experience how important the underlaying work is for a good result when painting. Very satisfied with this and it's very hard to see that the panels has been cut and put together again!

My precious RTX 3080Ti FE. Actually won a 3080 in CMWS. Later traded it for this 3080Ti card. Kept it saved and unopened for a project like this I'm so impressed by the details and quality feeling. Makes a good piece of art when removed. Well hello there. Fish PCB is awesome. Late night session installing the waterblock. Really hate putting those thermal pads on but with some good music it can be therapy EK Waterblocks Special Edition FE block makes the card super small and cool.

Been crimping my cables for years with a noname brand toll from a local dealer and it have worked. But I know it's not super reliable. As I'm doing all cables myself for this project I though it would be time for some proper tools. Well, MDPC-X got the right stuff. My order came out prety heavy with all connectors, tools and wires. But it feels good to spend some money for quality. I had alot of options for the cables. White, to go clean together with the all white case. Gold (sleeve) to match the water cooling fittings. Black, just clean and match interior panels on the casemod. Accent color, something vivid to stand out. Or these beautiful transparent tinned copper cables! Used them in a Razer Core X project once before and love them. Will be my first Nvidia 12 pin PCI-e cable, interesting! So thin so small so good crimps. Alot more to go! Will make 24 pin, 8 pin CPU, 12 pin PCI-e. All custom lengths, no extensions. Lets put some hours in I guess.

Top on Tempered glass side panels on Both speakers assembled Time to play some music!

Backside in 5 mm glossy beautiful black acrylic fits perfect with cut outs for bassreflex and terminal. Both mounted with 4 screws each making the back sandwish construction tight and complete. THe top of the speaker still consists of the case "front" and just clicks in place like before. I've decided to go with the orignal case feet to make the NR200P design complete. They got rubber pads so actually makes a pretty good speaker feet. The feet are attatched to a bottom plate that is mouunted to the steel frame. Super easy to just remove and install other feet if I ever feel I need to change them.

I've been missing the final piece (or probably the first you should get for your PC) the motherboard. Considered alot of options and when AORUS said they could help out I choose the Z690I AORUS Ultra. I got a new unopened i9 12900KS at home waiting for something like this Can't wait to get the mobo and start designing the backside distro plate for the case. I need the mobo to be able to position the CPU water block 100% so it's about time!

Got the case floor and motherboard frame cut and ready to try in the case. Sits perfect and my notch design for the floor keeps it in place by itself secured by the steel frame. Placeholder mITX motherboard with connections facing downwards. The case design makes up for a perfect chamber beneath the floor for cables and connections when not using it for fans or rads. I often see, and have built myself, superb casemods with awesome visual design. Until you plug them in for daily use. Then you have cables coming from stupid places just because motherboard orientation looks good. That only works for a showpiece and not for a production quality casemod. Which is why I do my design to both focus on visual design PC alone (only power cable) and when in full game mode with cables connected! This design will actually make it possible to hide the cables comming from the PC 100% if you got a custom desk or a desk with a cable cutout SFX PSU hidden in the compartment beneath the floor with at CM logo air intake cut out. I'll use the PSU fan mounting screws to mount the PSU hanging. A bit controversal but I've done it before and it works like a charm.

Making some internal cables with 2x 3 mm². A bit larger than the usual cable works when making cables for computers. But large and beautiful. The 50/50 mix of pure Cu and silver plated is awesome. Forgot to take that money shot of the bass reflex so will do that for final photos Next step in the assembly process is more internal panels. Top and backside. Same as for the front, the back will be built using alot of parts all together in a sandwish construction locking things together tight. I designed the bass reflex tube to be a two split piece going from a radius pipe inside the speaker to a CM shaped exhaust at the back. Also applying the CM logo as the internal bracket going through the back internal wall. I used the exact same size and shape for the terminal as for the bass reflex. But "filled" it with angled holders for cable terminals. Yet again I designed a bracket that attached to the steel frame of the case locks in place just by clamping force. Cables from tweeter will go on top and cables from woofer down in the double bottom. The black sheets are bitumen self adhesive pads to ad weight and reduce vibration. If its not enough I'll add dampening material in the gap between inner and outher parts of the sides. The adjustable filter mounted at the bottom with connections faceing backwards. All cables routed (shown at the back of the picture). The white mounting bracket fits perfect to the steel frame without any modifications done to it. Here again I added the brass M4 inserts which is my best choice of parts done in a good while! And mounted to the frame! All held in place by itself when mounting the steel frame back together. The backside will have 8 visible screws, 4 for each assembly and will clamp it all together secure and tight.