Mike Dulay
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Everything posted by Mike Dulay
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Iron and Wood: Project Vertical Accessories
Mike Dulay replied to Mike Dulay's topic in 🖱️ None PC Mod
PHOTODUMP II
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PHOTODUMP PART II
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Photodump! IRON AND WOOD: PROJECT VERTICAL DIMENSIONS: L- 30CM W-22CM H-56CM (with handle bars) 52cm(without handle bars) MATERIALS: WOOD PALLET/PALOCHINA Hardware Specs Processor: AMD Ryzen 5 5600G Graphics Card: Gigabyte RX 6600 Eagle Motherboard: Gigabyte AM4 A520i ITX Ram: T-Force Xtreem 16gb (2x8GB) 3200mhz DDR4 Storage: T-Force Cardea Zero Z 340 Gen 3x4 SSD PSU: Cooler Master V750 SFX GOLD All in one cooler: Cooler Master Masterliquid ML360 Illusion with MF120 Halo Fans Others: Cooler Master Vertical Graphics Holder V1 Cooler Master ATX 24 Pin 90° adapter Cooler Master M.2 NVMe SSD Thermal Pad 3x Arctic Cooling 120mm thins fans (rear) Cable Hub Sleeved Cables for the PSU Li-Heat 400mm PCIE3 Riser Extension cables
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Iron and Wood: Project Vertical Accessories
Mike Dulay replied to Mike Dulay's topic in 🖱️ None PC Mod
....And here are the items made... they are not complete mods but I just wanted to share what was made with the left over wood from the project. Wood working skills still needs a lot of improvement.
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Good day! As part of my build for the scratch mod category, I've included some "accessories". There some extra wood pallet left over from the build and I decided to use it. First I made a laser cut-out of the design I will be using as template in cutting and shaping the wood. Next, with the use of a router, I made a canal/channel in the wood... Next I shaped the wood using a bandsaw... ...with an angle grinder... ...and sandpaper... .... And now we have a cellphone holder/stand...(I know it's not a cm product but still Still using recycled wood, I made a keyboard wrist rest for the Cooler Master Ck350 Mechanical keyboard... Same procedure as above....cut, shape, sand.... Finally, add wood stain (mahogany) ...then wipe ...let dry... ...then spray with sanding sealant... The first accessory made was a headset holder for the Cooler Master MH752 Gaming Headset. It is made of wood and to attach it to any metal part of the case, a neodymium magnet was placed on the other side.
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...And here it is folks!!! Presenting Iron and Wood: Project Vertical IRON AND WOOD: PROJECT VERTICAL DIMENSIONS: L- 30CM W-22CM H-56CM (with handle bars) 52cm(without handle bars) MATERIALS: WOOD PALLET/PALOCHINA ANGLE BAR ALUMINUM PLASTIC (3D Print) Thank you everyone for viewing my work. There is a lot of improvement to be done but the goals were met and I am very happy of the result. This is the first time I used recycled wood as the main material for the build. I was anxious at first because of my poor wood working skills but thanks to Mark Luken, Paul Perez and others, I was able to finish the project. I have gained new found respect for wood workers, furniture makers and the like, working with wood is not as easy as it seems and I have more to learn. Again, many thanks to you all. Good luck to us all in this competition.
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Assembly time... Hardware Specs Processor: AMD Ryzen 5 5600G Graphics Card: Gigabyte RX 6600 Eagle Motherboard: Gigabyte AM4 A520i ITX Ram: T-Force Xtreem 16gb (2x8GB) 3200mhz DDR4 Storage: T-Force Cardea Zero Z 340 Gen 3x4 SSD PSU: Cooler Master V750 SFX GOLD All in one cooler: Cooler Master Masterliquid ML360 Illusion with MF120 Halo Fans Others: Cooler Master Vertical Graphics Holder V1 Cooler Master ATX 24 Pin 90° adapter Cooler Master M.2 NVMe SSD Thermal Pad 3x Arctic Cooling 120mm thins fans (rear) Cable Hub Sleeved Cables for the PSU Li-Heat 400mm PCIE3 Riser Extension cables Note: I used M5 allen screws for the rear fans. It just looks good on the fans.
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It was a long, exhausting and dusty day but I was able to finish sanding and applying wood stain and sanding sealant! I choose a Mahogany wood stain to be able to bring out the wood grain from the wood. (Sorry to our wood working friends, real new to this and I just have a rudimentary skill in wood working and wood staining/painting.) *Made round feet for the base which is about an inch in height. After working on the wood, next were the metal parts..... .....Steel Mesh.... *Note: Due to the cold weather at night, I had a few painting issues. First, the nozzle easily got blocked by paint. Second, the flat clear top coat turned white so I had to soak the cans of spray paint and top coat in warm water.
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Test fitting of the hardware before the sanding and application of wood stain.
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I needed to do a test fit of the 360 AIO cooler. I was worried that I did not put enough space between the radiator mount and motherboard tray. If you've noticed, there is just the right amount of bend for the AIO hoses. I placed the fan on the hose side because when placed on the opposite side, the hose bends too much and the radiator would just not fit hence the placement of the fans.
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Finished the rear support for the fans. I used wood instead of the angle bars because I needed to reduce the weight as the case itself is becoming too heave. Here it is with the font and rear panels installed. I used metals inserts and M3 allen screws to attach the fan/radiator mount for the rear part of the case. *Note: I could only do wood work/modding for a couple of hours a day because of work and I don't have a workshop so if you noticed I work all over the house lols. Most of the pictures were taken using my phone cam and again I apologize for the crappy pictures.
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Next I used a sintra board to use on the Cooler Master vertical gpu mount to prop it up and will be using it as a template. *I had issues with the stock 200mm riser. It just didn't reach the motherboard PCIE slot. Even the new V2 version just did not reach. Fortunately, a fellow modder, John Patrick Wong, lend me his 400mm PCIE riser cable and will be seeing it in the next uploads.
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Test fitting the motherboard with the stock cooler installed.
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Next up the motherboard tray. The original plan was to use the same 5mm wooden planks for the motherboard tray but I decided against it because of the bending issues I experience earlier. Instead, I used angle bars. The angle bars proved to be the best choice because it provided stability and was sturdy enough that you can carry it using the top handles and shake it. Used wood inserts to attach the bottom and top angle bars to the base and roof of the case. Hand carry without worry! Next was the PSU mount. I got this for use on a my personal rig but looked good on the project. It is a 3D printed shroud for the NR200P. The file can be downloaded from the official Cooler Master website. Attached the mount to the motherboard tray using M3 screws and nuts.
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A look at the case with 2 steel cabinet handles installed on top. Wooden inserts were used to attached the handles. I choose to use wooden inserts to attach the handles to keep with the goal of the case being modular. The placement of the handles was inspired from the carry handles tha can be found on the Cooler Master C700 Cosmos case.
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Time for the base and top to be attached with the angle bars. This will serve as the front support and attachment for the planned radiator mount and front and side panel. The angle bars were attached to the wooden base and top by means of metal inserts and M5 sized flat head hex screws. Additional holes were drilled for the radiator mounts.... *Note: the radiator/fan mounts came from an unkown case that I got from Paul Perez, a fellow modder based in Manila. I was supposed to use it for a case mod I planned earlier in the year but due to the current health situation it did not push through and I almost threw it away. After the attaching the radiator mount to the front support, I test fitted the front panel a 360mm copper radiator and fans to check for any issues. **Note: You can clearly see the cracks in the panels that I mentioned earlier because of the thickness of the panel. I should have gone with atleast 7 or even 10mm but that would have made the case heavier. But using the panels now I have been more careful in handling the pieces.
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After test fitting the steel mesh on the panels, next to be done was the angle bars. As with the steel mesh, the rust had to be removed from the angle bars. Again with the use of the steel brush and sandpaper, the rust was removed from the angle bars.
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After doing the wood part of the build, I need to cut the steel mesh based on the size of the cuts I made on the panels. The steel mesh needed a lot work done because of the rust build up. It was kept outside of the house and was almost forgotten but fortunately it was not thrown out with the trash. Comparing the the steel mesh that can be seen in the picture, the rust is extensive but I was able to remove it by using a steel brush and sand paper. The rust removal took almost a day because of how embedded it was in the mesh but fortunately I was able to remove it. Test fitting the steel mesh to the panels.
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Next was to cut the wood for the base and top of the case. I used a phone cam in these photos because the last time I used my camera wood dust covered the whole camera . I needed to use a handsaw because the blade could only reach a certain height. I used a belt sander to smoothen out the wood. Once I got the desired thickness, I went ahead and started to cut the middle part of the panels with a router machine to put in the steel mesh. I had the bright idea of taping the panels together because during practice runs with the router the 5mm thick wood would crack I actually ended up wasting 1 panel hehehhehe. The panels were only 5mm and due to my inexperience using the router, there were cracks in the wood and I had to glue them together. Even though the wood was taped together I still ended up with cracks.
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After making the template, we started to prepping the wood. He showed me how to cut the wood I proceeded making cuts using his DIY table saw. Funny thing is that the first time I used it I nearly got my hand cut because I didn't hold on to the wood firmly . After cutting the pieces needed, I needed to sand it down to 5mm remove the imperfections from the wood. These sanded down planks will be used for the front and side panels. After getting the desired measurements, I needed to join the planks by using wood glue and press them together. I let it dry for a few hours to get the desired results. *Note: Mark warned me that because of the rainy and moist weather I might end up redoing some of the panels which I did. He also warned me to not to remove the press keeping the wood together too early or I might end up with bend panels which I got. I did get a small bend which is noticeable but not a deal breaker and decided to use it.
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Hello everyone!!! The idea for the scratch build came when I decided to visit a friend, Mark Luken, who was selling a computer table that he made as a hobby and I was intrigued by the materials he used. I was impressed because he used wood pallet or what we locally call palochina wood from the local wood scrap yard and turned it to beautiful furniture. This inspired me to use the same material for the scratch build. I asked him if he would teach and help me because I have less than admirable wood working skills . He obliged and started teaching me the ways of the force!. We had a few goals for the project as we only had a limited budget and time as I can only work on weekends and I don't have a workshop to build the project: - The use of materials that are readily available in my home and his workshop - Use of wood pallet or recycled wood - Use of recycled steel angle bars As for the case: - The design should be simple, double chambered case that can support a 240mm or 360mm radiator. - It will house an itx motherboard, a twin or triple fan graphics card and SFX or ATX size PSU. - Modular - No welds, only screws, inserts wood glue and nails. With these goals in mind, I made a mock-up of the case by using several sheets of Sintra board and glue. This mock-up will also be used as template for the different size pieces.
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Good day everyone! My name is Michael Dulay and it is my third time joining this prestigous event. I will be updating this thread as soon as I am able. Good luck to all and most importantly, let's all have fun doing what we like doing best.
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This event has been a roller coaster experience for me. My goal of converting the Haf Stacker 915 to a shorter version of it was a real eye opener. There were plenty of hardships along the way but I was able to overcome those obstacles. It is an honor to be part of this event and good luck to all of us participants. Special thanks to the following people: Laires Mae Lomadilla Ivana Mikal Dulay Linda Dulay Ayzie Dulay Joseph Calimon Matthew Yap Martin Lopez Aloy Magtoto Limbert Sanoy Paul Perez PC Square Cabanatuan Branch Without you guys, these endeavour would have not been possible. Again I would like to present to you my Entry for the CMWS2020, The Haf Stacker 915R "Shorty" Specs: Processor: Ryzen 9 3900 Motherboard: X570i Aorus PRO WiFi GPU: 5700XT reference with Bykski GPU waterblock Memory: Corsair Dominator Platinum 16 x 2 DDR4 3200mhz Storage: Corsair MP510 M.2 NVMe 480gb PSU: Cooler Master V750 watts SFX modular PSU Chassis: Cooler Master Haf Stacker 915R ITX case Cooling - Barrow Pump/Reservoir/Waterblock, Bykski GPU waterblock and fittings. Cooler Master 240mm radiator and 2 Masterfan SF120R ARGB Fans. DIMENSIONS: (L)350mm x(W) 228mm x(H) 248mm = 19.79L
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Some more pictures of the rig...
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After painting the frame for the LCD and with just a few days left before the deadline, I put together all the acrylic pieces together on the modified HAF Stacker 915R.....
