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Jean R built - Piñasphere


Jean R built
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The Radiator side has a different situation here the exploded model animation

 

 

As you can see the internal dome is floating:

 

This is because on this side the radiator is protected by the dome, but is also a structural part to keep everything in place.

 

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In the next photo you can see how it is fastened to the Radiator Frame

 

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Well speaking about this pic, even if not very glamorous, you can also see the routing passages for the tubing and the fan cable.

 

There are also the parts to which the external domes attach to, but it wasn't the main purpose of the pic so they just happen to be there.

Edited by Jean R built
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Even though it doesn't look that important structurally, the SSD frame needed 3 iteration before being what it is now.

 

it has to allow for 2 2.5" SSD and keep the antennas in place, while minimizing the slowing of the airflow.

 

 

I had to try different iterations, also because the first one was to uncomfortable to assembly, so it was a bit of trial and errors.

 

Another part that was hard to implement in the design, were the I/O access faces, on the front side I was able to keep the first receding design, while for the back I needed more clearance for the power connector so I went with a full slice of the dome.

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The Workhorse of the whole build has been my Creality Ender 3 Pro, which I modified to be quieter during night operation as some parts took more that 24 hours to print.

 

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Printing the clear PETG parts with a hot bed wasn't kind with the original bed, so when it gave up I went with a PEI one, so far I like it you just have to be careful with the preheat phase, and have more patience at the end with the cooling phase.

 

The main reason for the hot bed with the clear PETG parts, is that the hotter the more clear they will come in the end.

 

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for the finishing process, this time around was mostly precision cutter work as I didn't want to paint the parts for this project.

 

To avoid extra finishing work, I took more care when deciding the printing orientation of the parts and fine tuned the supports.

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All the printing was done with the 3D printer inside the soft enclosure.

 

Between every prints I did a deep cleaning of the printer, and print bed leveled.

 

The direct extruder configuration also helps with the deep cleaning, I had to fine tune it again especially the retraction settings, but now it works like a charm and i can also do a deep purge with a thick long needle, it helps a lot to get clean prints.

 

 

As you can see in the photos, when printing with clear PETG, the temp were 250°C for the hot end and 90°C for the Bed.

 

This way the parts come out transparent, I could have made them more clear, but I needed them to be strong, so thicker, this made them have a frosty look which thankfully I like.

 

The rPET was tricky, because I could not use the same settings as the other PETG filaments, I had to print it 10°C cooler and slower, or it would print a brittle part.

 

Generally speaking not considering the clear parts, I avoided Ironing in this project, especially for the white parts, as the risk for burnt stains was to high.

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