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NR200P addaptation for RTX 3080


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My target was to create a small, quiet, powerful and beautiful computer for work and gaming.

I decided to use the CoolerMaster NR200P case.

The problem was that I wanted to use the glass window, place the RTX 3080 at the bottom, place the water cooling on top, make the case quiet and cold.

It was impossible to do all this at the same time in the current version of the case.


In the first attempt, I completely destroyed the case while modifying.

Then I bought another new case and found this solution with a minimum of modifications.



Processor: AMD Ryzen 9 3900X, 12/24, 3.8-4.6GHz, AM4, 105W, DDR4 3200MHz -> Overclock +13%
Watercooling: ASUS ROG Strix LC 240 RGB White Edition, 2500rpm, 37.4dBA, 81CFM
Motherboard: ASUS ROG CROSSHAIR VIII IMPACT, X570, 2xDDR4, 2xM.2
Memory: G.Skill Trident Z Royal 32Gb 3600MHz, 16-19-19-39, 1.35V, F4-3600C16D-32GTRSC, 2x16
SSD: Samsung 970 PRO 1Tb MLC 2-bit 1200TBW 3500/2700, MZ-V7P1T0BW
SSD: Samsung 860 PRO 2Tb MLC 2-bit 2400TBW 560/530, MZ-76P2T0BW
OS: Windows 10 Pro
Videocard: MSI NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3080 10Gb, 1440/1710MHz, 750W
PSU: Corsair SF750 SFX Platinum 750W
Case: Cooler Master MasterBox NR200P, Mini-DTX, MCB-NR200P-WGNN-S00, White
Fan: ID-COOLING NO-9215 PWM 92x92x15, 2500rpm, 33dBA, 44CFN, 0.16A, 9215M12S x2
Fan: Be Quiet Pure Wings 2 PWM 92x92x25, 1900rpm, 19.6dBA, 33.1CFM, 0.32A, BL038





1) if use glass window GPU can be placed only on the bottom;

2) NR200P not fit water cooling on the top - need modify top;

3) RTX 3080 require PSU minimum 750W and on market exists only one SFX PSU with 750W;

4) GPU and PSU produce hot air that must be vented from the case - need to place additional fans, and turn PSU direction to hot air out;



I uploaded all shots at the same time, becouse my build is already finished. There is final shots and detailed shots of modified parts. Also shots of temperature meterring while gaming Crysis Remastered - that loads RTX 3080 very havy.



1) Remove redundant plastic from the top panel. See images with top panel.

2) Remove one of the four fan mounts for each water cooling fan. The mount that is above the memory. This will allow you to place the fans above the memory.

3) Move the PSU so that hot air is blown out towards the side panel. Trim the PSU holder slightly to fit into the holes on the case. Fix PSU on fron panel. See picture _AZ73759_.jpg

4) Put two thin fans 92mm on side panel for output air;

5) Put one fan 92mm ob back panel for input air;

6) configure processor for overclocking = +13%, PWM managment for all fans = silent;


Its all.

See results. Small ITX case with glass window, RTX3080 inside, completly silent and cold.


Thank you.



























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  • 1 month later...

Wow, incredible build man! Did you need any special tools for the mods? It looks like the biggest part was just taking the plastic off of the top where the extractor fans usually fit.

Also which cables did you use? 

Thanks for posting it up, I'm going to buy parts to slowly match what you've got here - currently have the nr200p & a 3080, but I'm not seeing great thermal performance (stock setup) even with the vented side panel.

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Liamso, Thank you for reply. Here is the answers:

1) I not used any special tools just this tools on the image.

2) Yes most part of modification was to remove plastic from the top, cut one fan holder from each watercooler fan (wich is above the memory), drill one hole on the top for fan holder, and turn on the side metal holder of PSU cut him a little and fix it on front metal panel.

3) I used only cables from the PSU. In our market was present only one PSU size SFX with 750W. There was no choice :) And his cables fit very well this build. They is not long and all has thermal protection wrap.

4) About thermal performance: its crucial for me because I always use overclocking for work and gaming. And with this build for the first time I can say that I reached good results. All my previous build was significantly hotter. I used many other MINI-ITX cases like TT V1, Cougar QBX, some from Jonsbo - and all was 10-15 degree hotter. In this build temperature on high loading and overclocking is almost ideal. I think because of many factors:

  • pc case: cold metal, good air circulation and good internal placement of parts. There is enough space for air ciculation and parts "can breath" freely.
  • RTX 3080 MSI without hot back door. There was only available RTX 3080 videocard on our market and I happy to buy exactly this card. I was surprised about temperature and performace of this card - is NOT HOT in comparisone with my previous RTX 2080 TI cards. And its not has hot back door! For example I installed on my main working pc RTX 3090 with hot back door and in half hour¬†system fall shutdown on overheating (memory and board). So, I must move 3090 to lower slot and install hotpipe like in the car :) see image. Its was only way for work on overclocking with 3090 in big case with 17 big fans.¬†
  • Motherboard ASUS ROG CROSSHAIR VIII IMPACT X570. In my experience is the coldest one. All the others was hotter.
  • Additional air fans. I placed two 92mm slim fans on side panel for output hot air from GPU, PSU and board. And I placed 92mm normal size fan on back for input air. This was made to insure cold air for top waterblock fans (actualy I tried both in/out direction of this fan - and direction into case make approx 3 degree colder for processor).


Finally I'm very happy with this coolermaster case - its small, silent and premium. I really love this superb production quality when see and touch this case.




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Hey, I love this mod! All of the pieces came together perfectly and the airflow looks very optimized. I do have two questions.

  1. What did you use to attach the rear of the heatsink to the upper portion of the case? Is it sagging at all?
  2. Did you try with the PSU in the standard position? Was the mod to turn it inwards necessary to fit the top radiator or done entirely for improved cooling with the dual 92mm side case fans?


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Hello, David. Thank you for your reply.


1) Not sagging. Is fixed with metal srews. See image 8,9,10. One side of radiator is placed on cutted pci slots plugs. Other side is derectly fixed with black screws with washer. And one of the fans is screwed to top. This too ensure moveless state of radiator. See on the images - one of the fans is displaced 1cm. This was only way to fit it over motherboard in this place.


2) Yes I tryed standard position, but in this way the biggest problem was cables down PSU touch hot metal plate of videocard. The temperature of this metal plate is arround 60-65 degree and cables is the cables from mb main connection with hot self temperature. The only way to make them live together happy is leave beetween them little space. See image 5,6. The space we win is onle 5-6mm, but for two metal surfaces with good air output is enough to maintain good temperature.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Beautiful Andrey!

I am using your build as a guide for me but I wanted to try and use a different AIO because Asus does not cover any damages to equipment if there was a failure. 

I noticed on the Rog Strix 240 AIO you use it lists the radiator Dimension: 150 x 122 x 27 mm

Is that a typo?
Corsair Hydro Series, H100i RGB PLATINUM SE, 240mm: 277mm x120mm x27mm

I would prefer to go corsair due to them covering any damages to psu/gpu/mobo if there happens to be a manufacturer defect and it leaks

Can you confirm dimensions of the radiator you are using and also, would the h100i platinum fit?

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Hello Kyle, thank you for your reply.


1) About size of radiator. Yes you can use H100i AIO. The size of radiator of both AIO is almost the same:
LC240: 272 x 122 x 27 mm
H100i: 277 x 120 x 27 mm

I think any 240mm radiator can fit in this place. Only existing limitation is height. There is no more space to fit higher radiator or higher fan. And pay attention to fans and pump holders. One of fans need to be placed very close to upper pump holder. I cut one fan's holder to fit fans above memory and pump holder. I attach photo to show where to pay attention.


2) About H100i. I used it once in one of my previous builds. H100i was perfect.


3) About leaks. I use many years All-In-One water cooling from different brands like Asus, Gigabyte, Corsair, Coolermaster, Enermax - all work fine, and I never saw any leaks. For me there is no difference between brands. All brands has high quality and good temperature cooling. The only little difference for me is connection type and posibility of PWM on fans. I use overclocking and PWM of all fans to make system silent. Sometimes some AIO has his own management and you need use different software. In my build both Asus MB and Asus AIO work nice together. Is the first time I use it together and I happy how it work. For overclocking and PWM management I use "AI Suite 3" and for lights I use "Armory Crate" (both ASUS software).


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Hello. Ryzen 9 5900X just arrived.


Here is little update of my build.
Changes 1: Ryzen 9 3900X -> Ryzen 9 5900X;
Changes 2: CPU overclock +13% (4.3GHz) -> CPU overclock +21% (4.5GHz);
Changes 3: Back fan BeQuite 92x92x25 -> ID-COOLING 92x92x15 just for design reasons;


I attach photos with new CPU and changed fan and a few photos of details for clearify my previous answers.


I attach also few photos of my game benchmarks with this build. All benchmarks was made on ultras, with monitor 3440x1440, CPU overclock +21%, memory XMP - default, GPU overclock - default.

Assassin's Creed Odyssey, Assassin's Creed Valhalla, Far Cry 5, Ghost Recon Breakpoint, Watch Dogs Legion.


Important!!! To install Ryzen 5000 you need to update your X570 motherboard BIOS first. Or update later through special USB connector (if your MB has one) by plugin only PSU cable and inserting USB-flash with special BIOS file in special USB connector on motherboard.


HARDWARE list after this changes

CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 5900X, 12/24, 3.7-4.8Hz, AM4, 105W, DDR4 3200MHz,
CPU Overclock +21% (4.5GHz constant)
Watercooling: ASUS ROG Strix LC 240 RGB White Edition, 2500rpm, 37.4dBA, 81CFM
Motherboard: ASUS ROG CROSSHAIR VIII IMPACT, X570, 2xDDR4, 2xM.2
Memory: G.Skill Trident Z Royal 32Gb 3600MHz, 16-19-19-39, 1.35V, F4-3600C16D-32GTRSC, 2x16
SSD: Samsung 970 PRO 1Tb MLC 2-bit 1200TBW 3500/2700, MZ-V7P1T0BW
SSD: Samsung 860 PRO 2Tb MLC 2-bit 2400TBW 560/530, MZ-76P2T0BW
OS: Windows 10 Pro
GPU: MSI NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3080 10Gb, 1440/1710MHz, 750W
PSU: Corsair SF750 SFX Platinum 750W
Case: Cooler Master MasterBox NR200P, Mini-DTX, MCB-NR200P-WGNN-S00, White
Fan: ID-COOLING NO-9215 PWM 92x92x15, 2500rpm, 33dBA, 44CFN, 0.16A, 9215M12S x3
















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Looks great, I have a 5900x ( still trying to secure gpu ) but I am starting to layout the build. 

How did you keep your 92mm ( intake ) fan on the back from having the fan blades rub on the inside of the case? I have a 120x15mm fan ( from same manufacturer you have ) and when I put it in there the blades rub on parts of the case.. it has to be mounted the other way for air to intake and my blades hit that way


Edited by Kyle T Duffy
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