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I love the design of the cosmos (and I'm curious for your project), no wonder that I have one. Good luck to us!

You didn't just copy that line into every log with a Comos, did you? :roll:


The (still unknown type) GPU will be watercooled in this pc. To do that, I will be using this old radiator I had lying around. The white residue appeared during high temperature testing, it's probably water scale. As you can see, a few sheets of white paper do wonders for a clear image.


I will sacrifice the bottom three bays for the radiator:


Once again, I will be using 2mm aluminium for constructing the radiator holder:


Just to make sure the holes were drilled well, which was the case fortunately :)


This is what the plate looks like after bending, drilling mounting holes and cutting out slots for other parts of the case. Removing the protective foil is always nice :)


This is what it looks like after putting it in the case:



For now, this is the complete assembly, of course the fan is still missing. If the aluminium is still visible through the front, I will be painting it black or white in the future :)


These two colors make it really easy to go to the next part, the reservoir. The other seven bays will be used by my very own production reservoir, Liquitwist :) Orders can be placed from now on, see my website http://brinkofmodding.com for all the details :)




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Yesterday was the day I started building the new side panel. I will be using an old 8mm thick sheet of Lexan. The protective foil was severely damaged, so I didn't want to sell it anymore. You never know how damaged the actual sheet is when the foil is damaged. This is the better side of the sheet ;)


The first thing to do was to remove the protective backing. The design is so complicated that I can't work with the non-see-through foil. Fortunately the sheet didn't have a lot of scratches, very few actually. I put it on the case to draw some rough cutting line:


The first cut:


Second cut:


This is how it should work in the near future ;)


Before cutting the second part, I needed to adjust my jigsaw to cut under an angle of about 20 degrees. Fortunately, this jigsaw lets me do just that:


The second part is cut and filed to shape:



The third sheet is the hardest, since we've cut off a little too much of the plastic side. I will have to fill that gap later on. This is the shape for now:



And to finish off, a nice overview picture. It starts to look really good I have to say :)



There are a few problems that I have to solve. I need to join the three panels of Lexan together. Metals plates will be used on the back, but I have to fill the gaps with some plastic kit or glue. Bondo will not work, that will crack due to the flexibility of the panels. I could still use some tips on how to solve this issue.

The other problem I have is that the top of the case was also cut a few mm wrong. One possibility is to buy a new top panel, but Cooler Master doesn't sell it in the shop anymore. The other option is to bolt some aluminum plate to the Lexan to fill the gap, since the gap is about 2mm wide across the whole top.

What I will do next time is unknown. I wanted to work on the side panels some more, but I may have to finish the radiator and reservoir assemblies first. You'll see ;)

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you could join the panels using the plastic weld glue used to create wc reservoirs

below taken from http://www.bit-tech.net/modding/guides/2010/02/28/how-to-make-your-own-watercooling-reservoir/2

Solvent Weld

The best stuff for solvent welding the ends on is either IPS Weld-On #3, or TAP Acrylic cement (which are effectively the same thing) from tapplastics.com. A 4oz jar will do several reservoirs so it’s an investment or provides a lot of practice. You also want to get the needle type gauge applicator (16 gauge hypodermic). The needle applicator gives you excellent control of how much solvent you use, whereas the bottles don’t at all and you'll get solvent everywhere if you use them.

While you are there shopping, if you solvent weld acrylic for other purposes, you can pick up a tube of IPS Weld-On #16. It is a lot thicker and is handy for gluing together acrylic in general, but for this particular purpose, it leaves far too many bubbles in the seam that can leak fluid. If properly used, this solvent weld will hold all day long at 10 times the pressure that we have in our watercooling systems.

In order to get solvent from one end to the other, I use a piece of small brass tubing that I bought locally for about a $1 at an ACE hardware store. The end was bent to make it easier to get into the bottom seams.

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Maybe the new shape of the new side panel wasn't clear yet, with the case laying down. So I put it back on its feet. This went well for a few minutes, but then the tape broke ;)


Before I will continue with the side panel, I have to have a better view of what the inside will look like. In this update, I will show you how I made two compartments, one for the radiator and one for the reservoir. It all starts with this sheet of 5mm white acrylic I had left:


I cut it under an angle of 45 degrees to make it flush with the case :)



To be able to mount the side panels, some more material had to be cut off. This picture also shows the second part I cut and bolted to the case:




I need a strict separation between the two chambers, so the air of the radiator will not pass through the whole case. To determine the shape of this part, I made a cardboard model first:




To mount the big plate in the case, I used two captive nuts that were attached to the bottom of the case. These will soon appear on my website, because they are so nice to work with :) Otherwise I would have needed to tap a thread in 1mm aluminum, of use a normal nut, which is no ideal solution.


All of these parts will be mounted with black hex bolts, they will be replaced by countersunk ones later on. You probably won't be able to look into the radiator compartment, but I will paint the angle profile black anyway ;)



And then the moment was finally there, I could mount my Liquitwist reservoir :)




The reservoir will be visible from both the side as from the front. I will be using the standard front plates (and still need two more), but I still have to choose if I'll use the plates with or without the fine mesh:




Through the focus of the camera, I can't really compare the result with these photos, but I'll just decide later on :) I hope you're liking the results so far, but more will come ;)

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The side panel will be painted white, once the three parts have been joined together. All that white needs a black fan grill :) This hole will serve as an intake for the radiator. The outtake will be in the front, so the dust will not get stuck in the front mesh. I will be using a Nexus Beamair, which was designed to improve airflow on fans. No fan will be mounted to it this time, but I finally found a nice purpose for it:



The nice thing about 8mm Lexan is that you will have to spend a lot of time on filing if your cuts aren't perfect :P On this picture it needed no support, but it didn't quite fit yet:


A little while later:



It's almost flush with the front of the Lexan, I'll make sure it is in the final product :)




To prevent a clogged radiator, I will make a dust filter for it. And as any woman would say, layers do the trick ;) This assembly now has a layer of Lexan, a layer of Beamair, Hexx mesh and a finer mesh :)


All of it is mounted with four M3 bolts, with threaded holes in the Lexan. The holes are blind, so they won't be visible from the outside :)



See you guys next time ;)

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