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USS EURISKO - Intrepid Mark II Class


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Here are some more details on the hardware that is going to be running the EURISKO

First: 5ltgqo.jpg

Gigabyte hase helped the EURISKO by fitting it with a new motherboard, the P67A-UD7



What a beauty, clean, slick, black with golden highlights! Super! Thansk a lot Gigabyte!

And :


Highflow will help the EURISKO to keep as cool as possible and thus help break the WARP 10 barriere!

Found a package at my house on friday.

The first Highflow order is in !

So here are the first starfleet approved USS EURISKO tech specs

The best radiators I could find. I am planning to overclock the system so i need all the cooling i can get. (also foam is a very good insulator so the less heat the better)



To get enough flow through a large ship like the EURISKO i need to have a strong pump. I have allowed room for a secondary laing pump if the circulation proves inadequate.


the fans for on top of the radiators. These fans will be put into a push-pull configuration with the planned fans in the bottom saucer. This to improve the cooling even better. Due to the thick thermochill rads, space was an issue. So I opted for these ultra thin (12mm) Scythe fans


The White Hot EPS Plasm Conduits will be made from the UV tubing from Feser


And a couple of beautifull pieces of mesh for the top and bottom DCIM's


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Here is the update for this weekend.

Started work on the canope and bottom saucer. One of the final dusty jobs.


All the bottom saucer parts glued to the baseplate


And added a layer of epoxy



Started work on the Main Deflector

Found a sweet piece of plexiglas, cut a hole for the fan to suck in some air and sunk a piece of mesh into it.



Cut a quick couple of pieces of depron to cover the edges. Now I have to wait for the deflector tunnel to be put into the filler and epoxy before i can complete it.



Started work on the warp nacelles with the Brink of Modding reservoirs.

Quickly realised the foam pylons and nacelles were not going to do the job. Setback of about a day. I wanted to hollow out the nacelles and put the hardware into it but the stiffness of the epoxy/glas layer would not stand up to hold the reservoirs, coolant, tubing and fittings. Let alone the mechanical forces that would work onto the epoxy/glass layer once the servo's have been fitted and the whole wing section can move up and down. Back to the drawing board it is ...

Found the solution. There will be MDF plating in this baby ! :D



Even in a starship they have to do weight reduction, so out with all the mdf we dont need!


And a quick test fitting. This picture is with the old foam pylons (the new solution in beneath it)


with this solution the pylon/nacelle partition will be strong enough to handle anything.


Made sure the dimensions stayed the same due to the relative sizes (nacelles vs canope vs width and height)


Side facing view with the reservoirs sticking out of the wood just slightly. This will be made better by the depron plates.


Just a quick test with a single led. working with WWWicked on a 10 fold led arrangement for the nacelles.


Total view


Could not resist testing the Main Deflector with the led. The MD needs to finished with the Angel Eyes or Frosted Led technique.


Wish I had a couple more loose leds for testing ...



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There were some new goodies from :


The Life support system has arrived ! Beautifull Alu NorthQ 92 mm fans


And what will be a much used piece of tooling soon (I hope ...)

Phobya Molex Kit


It has to become something like this


Quick fitting session as the rad's needs to be placed on the inside also


Some holes in mdf .. (needs to be cut to correct size though...)


And a quick fitting session to make sure it is in line with the model. Fitting and trying stuff on the model is something i do quite a lot and has prevented me from some major mistakes.


Need to cut a piece of silver mesh for the ouside alos.


Sunk the MDF into the bottom saucer


And then there was light !


Mulder : Look Scully, a UFO !

Scully : Nah propably just a pc in some guys basement!


Total view. The fans are now at Warp 10 so the leds will dim quite a bit at a comfortable warp 5.


Put a ledstrip into the model just to check it out. Even though the effect is funny and maybe usefull for another build (dropped into idea box) it is offcourse not what i would like for this build. The light pollution is heavy due to the thin layer of foam and epoxy is transparant by nature so ... That are going to be a lot of filling and airbrush layers !


The DCIM's will be covered with a black piece (strip actually) of mesh. Picture the blue glowing from behind the mesh and you got what i want to achieve. Will cut a piece tomorrow and post a new pic.


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Well even though the glow lines look very cool, they were not intended! I suspected the verticals would become bleeders but i hadnt anticipated the horizontal ones. (i actually played with the idea to do all the vertical ones with mesh but that would destroy the structural stiffness of the canope. The previous foto's didnt show the biggest bleeder!

Starship with sunroof anyone?


The Epoxy/glass layer dries transparantly. This is made of 6 layers of 160 grams glass with a 2 cm thick layer Epoxy. Virtually indestructable.

To talk about structural stiffnes of the model here are some more details.

The Canope is made of about 1 cm layer of XPS foam (they make spoilers for race cars out of this stuff) , thick filling layer (ok, not as thick everywhere, see the bleeding light effect) and several layers of 160 grams glassfiber with epoxy on the inside and outside.

I think together these 2 cases with the K62 having a 280 rad in the hood are about 10-12 kg!


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Here is the design for the fan/led controller I want to use for the EURISKO.

It will be integrated into a LCARS display in the standard that will support the model.

I will use a NZXT Sentry LXE with a remote touchscreen display like this one : Sentry LXE


The Idea is to take a thick piece of dark plexi and fit the buttons with transparant clear plexi. Different colour leds will light the buttons randomly with certain ones lit continuous making the screen come alive.

The NZXT LXE touchscreen fancontroller will be integrated into the panel after stripping the casing of it. The blueish voyager button left corner will be fitted with a on/off switch for the pc.

Really looking forward to this job, it might just get precedence above other work!

The colours in the design might change depending on the colour leds I will receive, but the layout is almost final!



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Here is a short update:

It is good to take a break from the build every once and again. Left the build for a good week to come back and find several issues with the design that I didn't see before. So I spend the most part of the day with the dremel taking of milimeter by milimeter certain elements of the tail to make the "flow" of the design better. There was a 3 mm thick layer of dust in the room when I finished but its done now and I am happy with it!

Last time when I hooked up the tubing to the warp nacelle it looked like this:


The white coil only just prevented the tube from folding too much so no coolant would be able to flow through. Obviously not a good solution. Take this restriction times 4 (2 per nacelles) and the single pump would definately not be enough umpff to make the ship fly any harder then warp 1,1. Back to the drawing board it is. What would make a perfect 180 degree turn and do that within 4 cm ?

Contacted Bitspower to ask for the heart to heart measurements of their snake fitting. Could not find the deatils anywhere.

Bitspower descided after seeing the buildlogs to send me a box with all different types of fittings, connectors, converters and what not to help me out. How extremely cool of them ! Looks like there are a lot of old trekkies around !


Tehy are all from the Black Sparcle Series ...


So now with the new fittings it looks like this :


PS. the yellow tape is to ensure the plexi doesnt get scratched



Looks a whole lot better al ready. No more restriction in the tubing which also doesnt want to press outwards by the strong curvature in the old solution.

This week will start the foam work encapsulating the nacelles and place the led array.

No small job .. (but so much fun!!!)



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Here is another update :

The Deflector Tunnel!

So, What do we have to do here. Fit the MDF PSU casing into the tunnel, fit the HDD drive cage with 2 HDD's and a SSD, fit the Laing DDC pump and add a 92mm fan for the HDD cooling.


Here is an upside down picture for explanation. After a tip from The Boiler I incorporated a structural element that will make attaching the case to the standard far more easy.

The MDF PSU casing has been raised for a couple of cm's making it stick out under the case. This will make it fit into a slot in the to be build standard and when everything is neatly airbrushed the model will seem to float 1,5 cm's above the standard (well thats the idea at least, LOL)


A little jump forwards, I was so busy I forgot to take pictures! I cut the raised casing out of the foam and sunk the HDD cage into it. Also added some structural elements to make it more stiff.


The foam "behind" the HDD cage has been removed to allow a 92mm fan to be placed pushing the air out of the tail section. So cool air is coming in through the raised PSU casing and pushed out through the tail-fan



Enough room for all the cables, esspecially when they have all been made to perfect length :wink:



I only have to move the pwr connector and switch to the back. A bit sorry to have to void the 5 year warranty on a PSU that has been in my posession for less than a day. Oh well, all part of the game right !?!



Put everything into the epoxy/glassfiber and put some additional layers where the tubing willenter the tail and where the fan will be cut out.


Here for the tubing :


Gonna drop by the hobbyshop tomorrow for some hinges to make the pylons and warp nacelles move up and down.



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Here is another update !

Had a brainfart while snowboarding after seeing a piece of snow coming through a piece of cloth at the pub.

This is what is has to become:


Here is the idea:


Looks soemthing like this


CRAP !! You can still see the transparant frosted plexi. oh wait thats because light is getting into it from the sieds. DOH !!!


Hmm still a lot of light but it is not as visible now. the LCARS panel needs to be light tight from the sides and between the LEDS"s

And LED on: (my camera shows too much light. it actually is a easy going blue


Still soem licht polution but the principle works!!! now to do soem experimenting with the intesity of the leds

'Here is an overview of the layers of plexi




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Soon enough?

Another Update ! Finally had some time to translate!

HMMM Let poke some holes now the epoxy is dry


It finally became a 80mm fan. Just wouldnt get the 92mm in without it looking strange.


The Tail fan


I can still add the os SSD between the HDD's and they will still have enough cooling


Started on the Pylons with the warp nacelles. Added a couple of small hinges.


This should be made possible to do electrically (by the servo's running of an arduino) by pushing a button on the commbadge !


Warp speed !




More holes ...


Jeffries tube from the series



The next pictures were made with green tubing for testing purposes. They will be replaced with feser white UV tubing as the whole interior will be airbrushed black and the led fan will be bue.

Ingress from the warp nacelles and egress towards the mobo and pump



Quick fitting session with all the deflector tunnel hardware fitted


Almost a shame to have to enclose this with foam


Well that was it for today



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